How to properly set up an outdoor enclosure for dogs?

The conditions in which a dog is kept have a direct impact on the physical and mental state of the animal, its performance and life expectancy. Dogs spend a significant part of their lives in their habitats. In the house or in the enclosure they rest, play, sleep and recover. If the dog is not able to move and move freely, the pet’s mood worsens and health problems arise. A properly equipped place of detention, on the contrary, has a positive effect on the emotional and physical state of the animal. Therefore, when keeping a dog outside, it is important to arrange the enclosure in such a way that it meets all the requirements and provides the necessary temperature, humidity and air composition.

Outdoor enclosure for dogs. The most common mistakes of builders.

I must sadly say that I have never seen a properly constructed enclosure.
For some reason, dog owners who build themselves a two- or even three-story mansion that is beautiful in all respects, make a completely wretched structure for their pet and protector. Some enclosures cannot even be called this word, since they were more like village dog kennels, only much larger in size. Some of them could only be entered on all fours. In these truly animal dens, it was impossible not only to conduct training with the dog, but also to simply do basic cleaning. Naturally, it simply never occurred to me to photograph such dog houses.

I photographed other enclosures I saw, so in order not to be unfounded, let’s look together at the most common mistakes using specific examples. Maybe this will help some dog owners avoid repeating the above design mistakes when building housing for their pet, immediately making it convenient for the dog to live, clean the room and train.

We build an aviary with our own hands

To build a high-quality and comfortable structure for your pet, you need to choose a suitable place for it, take measurements of the pet to determine the optimal size of the pen. Then a project is drawn up, which indicates the functional areas. Then they move on to preparing tools and purchasing missing materials.

Having completed these steps, they begin to erect a building on their own site. The structure is quite simple and does not have a complex design. Anyone can build it with their own hands, even those who do not have construction skills. The process occurs in several stages:

  1. Preparing the base.
  2. Pouring the foundation.
  3. Metal frame equipment.
  4. Laying flooring.
  5. Walling.
  6. Roof installation.

Mistakes to Avoid

When building an enclosure yourself, mistakes are often made that negatively affect the pet. To prevent them, let's consider common inaccuracies and shortcomings:

  1. The location for construction has been incorrectly determined. In an open area unprotected by tree crowns, the structure will be ventilated and in direct sunlight. Water will accumulate in the recess.
  2. The building is fenced on all sides by other functional buildings that block the view. The dog loves to observe everything and be in sight.
  3. Low ceiling. The dog will become aggressive and will not be able to get used to such housing.
  4. Small or oversized, incorrect aspect ratio.
  5. The use of combined materials in the construction of walls, for example, metal and plastic, wood.
  6. Fastening wooden frame elements with nails.
  7. Using a chain-link mesh, which the dog can damage and injure himself on the sharp wire.

Materials and tools

Before starting construction, you should prepare the tools required for work, namely:

  • bayonet and scoop shovels, buckets;
  • concrete mixer, old cast iron bath for mixing mortar;
  • hammer, screwdriver, saw, jigsaw;
  • welding machine;
  • measuring instruments, string, level.

Materials you will need:

  • cement, crushed stone, sand, water;
  • metal corner, profile, pipes;
  • wooden beam, board;
  • slate or tiles;
  • insulation (expanded polystyrene, mineral wool);
  • paint, varnish, antiseptics for wood processing;
  • bolts, screws, nails.

Project drawing with zoning

You can draw up a construction plan with your own hands, use a ready-made drawing found in specialized literature, downloaded from the Internet. When planning independently, the diagram must display the following points:

Zoning:

  • Winter road, if provided. It is a room surrounded on all sides by blank walls.
  • A place to sleep. The area in which the booth will be located.
  • Walking area. Area for permanent residence of a pet.
  • A place to eat.
  • Entrance door opening area.


Main dimensions:
  • total area of ​​the building;
  • height of partitions;
  • length and width of the structure.

Components:

  • type of foundation (ribbon columnar);
  • type of roof (single-pitched, double-pitched);
  • building frame;
  • wall construction, floor lathing, canopy.

Choosing a base or foundation

For temporary, seasonal construction, it is enough to prepare the site and fill it with gravel or sand. When building a massive, durable pen, you will need a good foundation. The structure is not characterized by great weight, so for its construction a columnar or strip foundation or a concrete screed made at a slight slope is sufficient. Let's consider the step-by-step process of filling the most common base in the form of a tape:

  1. The selected site is cleared of debris and dirt.
  2. A trench is dug 45 -50 cm deep and 30 - 40 cm wide.
  3. The soil is compacted, a cushion (15 cm layer of sand) is poured onto the bottom and also compacted.
  4. The formwork is installed, for this you can use any available material, put it together from boards, wooden sheets, pallets.
  5. A metal frame is knitted inside the formwork.
  6. The solution is mixed in a concrete mixer or an old bathtub.
  7. The foundation is poured and the top is covered with polyethylene for several days.

Flooring

The wooden floor is laid on joists. To use the structure throughout the year, a layer of insulation should be provided. The wood is treated with special water-repellent compounds and antiseptics. The step-by-step installation looks like this:

  1. The height of the floor covering is determined.
  2. A string is stretched along the perimeter of the future structure, which serves as beacons.
  3. A wooden sheathing is mounted from timber and boards, fixed to the base.
  4. In the voids between the joists, a layer of insulation made of expanded polystyrene or mineral wool is laid.
  5. Using self-tapping screws, boards are attached to the sheathing.
  6. At the final stage, the floor covering is painted and varnished.

Wall installation

To protect the dog from blowing, the structure is equipped with three solid walls, and one is made of a metal lattice, the bars of which are located exclusively vertically. Some owners make only two closed walls to increase illumination and visibility for the pet, so that they do not feel constrained.

Brick partitions can be erected on a strip foundation. This is a good material; it keeps you warm in cold weather. To do this, lay out the first row of three blank walls on the base. Half a brick is enough thickness; for large dogs it can be made into one. The second and subsequent layers are laid in a checkerboard pattern. In place of the open wall, a metal partition with a door is installed.

If wood is chosen as the main material, then first a frame made of metal or wood is built. Then markings are made on it, holes for the bolts are drilled. It is better to do without nails, which a pet can tear out by loosening the nailed board. After the wall is erected, the wood is coated with varnish using special compounds.

Roof construction technology

The enclosure is equipped with a pitched or gable roof. In the first option, one of the walls is made slightly higher than the other to maintain the required slope. The process for installing a single slope canopy is as follows:

  1. On two parallel sides, where the angle of inclination will be, install a Mauerlat or wooden strapping.
  2. Rafters with a cutout for the Mauerlat are laid on top of them along the entire length, and fixed to the beam using metal corners. The sides can be strengthened with a tie beam. The distance between the rafters should be 0.7-1 m when using tiles, 1.5-3 m for slate.
  3. A sheathing is installed on top of the rafter system.
  4. At the final stage, the roofing material is attached.

Dog kennel and feeding area

The construction of a booth should be approached with all responsibility. It is a pet's house in which he rests and hides. When building yourself, you first need to pay attention to the following points:

  • The size of the object must correspond to the parameters of the dog, the internal space should be enough for the dog to be comfortable, but an overly large booth will be cold.
  • Coniferous wood is used in construction.
  • For cold winters, it is worthwhile to provide an insulated structure.
  • The roof should be made flat, as it is a kind of pedestal for the pet from which he watches what is happening. It is recommended to make it removable, so that if the animal is sick, it can be easily examined and, if necessary, removed.

When constructing a feeder, it is preferable to place it near the front door, providing a special window for it. This option is good because sometimes you have to leave your home and entrust the care of the animal to a friend. In this case, a stranger will not put himself in danger by trying to feed someone else's dog.

Outdoor enclosure 1. Beautiful and comfortable, but not without its drawbacks

The aviary can be harmoniously integrated into the design of your estate

I’ll say right away that I’ve never seen a more beautiful enclosure that fits harmoniously into the design of a country estate, either before or since. And yet, the builders did not take into account a very important detail - it does not have a walking compartment, which means that if the owners for some reason do not take the dog out on time, it will have no choice but to relieve its needs in the enclosure. This is a very significant drawback, however, it is typical for the vast majority of outdoor dog enclosures I have seen.

It is possible to wash a dog without water

We discussed simple options, but what to do if bathing is contraindicated for a dog, how to wash a dog without water? There may be several reasons to think about it: bathing is contraindicated for old dogs due to the high likelihood of catching a cold, skin eczema progresses upon contact with water, healing wounds or sutures should be protected from moisture. The simplest option is that the dog is dirty, how to wash it if it is afraid of water?

There is an exit! At first, resourceful women tried this method on themselves, and then the idea was picked up by canine cosmetologists. To clean wool, powder is used, the main part is talc, auxiliary elements disinfect and disinfect the skin. The product is available in jars similar to baby powder. The powder is distributed over a small area, after which the wool is carefully combed

It is important to thoroughly comb the dog before bathing, to remove excess undercoat and tangles. This type of reading does not require additional procedures.

Outdoor enclosure 2. Simple metal structure

The enclosure is well conceived, but it does not yet have a roof; if it is present, the booth will need to be rebuilt, making it lower and with a flat (without slopes) roof. And, of course, there is no walking compartment provided here again.

The disadvantage of this enclosure is the lack of a roof and a compartment for walking a dog.

Another disadvantage of this enclosure is its openness to “all winds”. The dog must be protected from wind, rain and snow by making at least two walls of the enclosure solid. It is advisable to cover the floor of the enclosure with wood. It will protect the dog from diseases of the legs and joints.

Aviary for a large breed dog

If it is desirable to build an enclosure for a Rottweiler, Caucasian Shepherd, Irish Wolfhound, then for a Tibetan Mastiff or Alaskan Malamute it is simply necessary. As a rule, large dogs are excellent guards, and it is very important for them to have their own “guard post”. The benefit from building an enclosure is double: the animal does not suffer on a chain, and those around it are reliably protected from attacks by a toothy guard .

The perimeter of the nursery is 4 by 2.5 meters. Metal pipes are used for the frame. They are also used instead of a mesh.

Steel bars are stronger than mesh

Materials, tools

  • cinder blocks for the foundation - 8 pcs.;
  • profile pipe 60x30 mm for the frame - 76 m;
  • profile pipe 15x15 mm or rod with a cross section of 10 mm - 76 m;
  • boards for flooring and wall coverings;
  • wooden bars for the roof;
  • corrugated sheets for roofing - 6 pcs.;
  • improvised materials for arranging the roof: polystyrene foam, remnants of plastic panels;
  • fastening material;
  • welding electrodes;
  • roulette;
  • level;
  • shovel;
  • Bulgarian;
  • welding machine.

Outdoor enclosure 3. The enclosure that remained unfinished

And I completely understand the owner, who, of course, given our hectic life, was simply busy with more important matters without completing its construction.

This enclosure has a walk, but no common roof.

One German Shepherd lived his life in this enclosure, and when a new puppy appeared and I began training him, the owner eliminated all the shortcomings.

A young shepherd dog rests on the part of the enclosure intended for walking

They immediately catch your eye in the next two photographs (3.1 and 3.2):

In the photo below these shortcomings have been corrected. On the back side, the iron barrels were removed and in their place a walking compartment was built, which was covered with sand. Now, in rainy weather, the floor in the enclosure is dry and clean. The roof covers the entire area of ​​the enclosure and paddock. The floor of the enclosure is covered with a floorboard. The enclosure is very spacious and convenient for training and maintaining a dog.

Outdoor aviary after eliminating deficiencies

Tools and material calculation

To build an enclosure, you will need standard construction tools, such as a shovel, hammer, drill, hacksaw, adjustable wrench, welding machine, and pliers. To weld the frame, you may need the help of a professional.

Note! Materials for construction may vary depending on the chosen design, personal preferences and the availability of available parts on the farm. The amount of materials is determined by the size and design of the enclosure.

When building an enclosure for a medium-sized dog, you will need (area 2x4 m, wall height 2.5 m):

  • brick - 400 pcs.;
  • welded mesh height 2.5 m - 8 m;
  • dry cement (3×25 kg);
  • metal pipe 3 m high and 20 cm in diameter - 4 pcs.;
  • wooden board - 16 m²;
  • varnish - 1 jar;
  • slate - 8 m²;
  • roofing felt - 8 m²;
  • nails and screws;
  • metal door frame with hinges;
  • insulation material (expanded polystyrene, mineral wool);
  • sand and fine stones.

Approximate drawing of a two-zone enclosure with an area of ​​2×4 m

Outdoor aviary 4. Lightweight, portable aviary design made of metal.

The aviary is convenient because it allows the owner to determine the most convenient place for him on the estate.

This outdoor enclosure does not have a run

This enclosure is also characterized by a frequently encountered drawback - the lack of walking for the dog, which, however, can be easily corrected by finally deciding on the final location of the enclosure on the estate.

Location

Task No. 1 when choosing the location of the future enclosure is to ensure maximum visibility of the territory under the dog’s control. And task No. 2 is to remove this structure from possible sources of strong odors . There are “scents” that you don’t have to be afraid of - this is amber from a poultry house or from a barnyard, the dog can easily sniff them. But the constant ammonia smell will quickly weaken the capabilities of his nose. There are also fragrances that are completely harmful to a dog’s health, and you should stay as far away from them as possible.

When installing the enclosure, there is no need to navigate by the cardinal points or the direction of the winds. But if a pen is being built for a northern dog (husky, samoyed, husky, etc.), then it would be more correct (if there is such a technical possibility) to turn it with its façade to the north. An animal from the south (Caucasian Shepherd or Central Asian, for example), will be more comfortable living “facing” its native latitudes, that is, to the south.

Important! If there are blank walls near the enclosure, it is better when they stand against the movement of the prevailing winds in the area.

Outdoor enclosure 5. Correct, simple, no frills.

The enclosure was built correctly. There is a walking compartment. The door opens inward and presses against the partition, without dangling or interfering with training and cleaning the room, as can be seen in another photo.

A properly constructed outdoor enclosure

The front grill of the enclosure can be closed with a drop-down curtain (in the photo the curtain is rolled up).

Outdoor aviary. A trained dog sits at the booth and does not interfere with cleaning the enclosure and walking compartment

Planning the Aviary

Unlike small-sized enclosures for apartments, which many people purchase ready-made, street fencing in most cases has to be built independently.

Before you start building an enclosure for a dog, you should prepare its design. It is important to correctly calculate the size of the structure, plan the internal arrangement of the enclosure and determine its location.

Outdoor enclosures 6 and 7. Properly constructed enclosures (block of three enclosures)

These enclosures are built correctly. They are tall enough to be comfortable for cleaning and training dogs.

Block of three outdoor enclosures

The disadvantages include the extremely small area of ​​the enclosure and walking area.

Properly constructed enclosures, the disadvantage is a small walking area

The first constrains the trainer, the second can lead to the fact that the dog, having gone for a walk once, will recover in the enclosure a second time, since there is little space there for several similar procedures.

Wooden enclosure for a small breed dog

Small dogs are most often kept in an apartment, and an enclosure for them is a mobile folding fence made up of several sections, which when unfolded form a quadrangle or a straight line.

Such an enclosure will not take up much space in the apartment

Owners place the animal in an enclosure if they are afraid that the dog will cause mischief in the room or harm itself. When receiving guests, such a dog is also placed in an enclosure so that no one accidentally injures it.

For a puppy, an enclosure with a height of 40 cm and an area of ​​1 square meter will be sufficient. m. For adult small breed dogs, a “fence” up to 80 cm in height is built and at least one and a half meters of territory are allocated.

Materials and tools

  • bars 4x4 cm for load-bearing structures: 4 pcs. 1.5 m long and 4 pcs. length 90 cm;
  • wooden planks for a picket fence 60 cm high;
  • door hinges - 6 pcs.;
  • lace or latch;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • roulette;
  • hacksaw;
  • screwdriver (screwdriver).

How to do

  1. Two sections 150x60cm and two sections 90x60cm are assembled from bars and planks.
  2. The finished sections are connected to each other with door hinges. The hinges are screwed to the wooden elements with self-tapping screws from the inside and the result is a structure that folds into a rectangle and unfolds in one line.

    The sections are connected using small door hinges

  3. The fourth, loose corner is secured with a latch or tied with a cord.
  4. Warm bedding, toys and dishes with food are placed inside.

The enclosure is placed away from electrical appliances and sockets, otherwise the dog may chew anything that gets on its teeth and get an electric shock.

Dog at home, on a chain (leash), photos 8 and 9.

More often than not I saw just such a picture. A dominant one-year-old male Central Asian Shepherd, Jamal, before our training began, lived on a closed veranda in the house until he began to attack the owners’ guests.

An enclosure was built for the Central Asian shepherd dog Jamal where a car was parked.

He categorically refused to enter the booth. His enclosure was placed in the place of the car that is visible in the background of the photo.

Labrador Jerry lived on a leash on the veranda

And the magnificent retriever Jerry lived on the open veranda of the rented house while the owners built their cottage.

Calculation of dimensions and design features

The size of the structure is determined depending on the number of living pets, the height of their withers, and gender. To keep two dogs or a female with puppies, the enclosure will have to be increased by 1.5 times. The width of the structure should be one and a half times the length of the dog, but not less than 150 cm. The height can also be determined experimentally. To do this, the dog must be raised on its hind legs, measure the distance from the floor to the end of the outstretched front legs, add 20-50 cm to the resulting measurements. The length is determined depending on the area and width of the building.

The table below shows area standards for different sized pets.

Type of dogsWithers height, cmOptimal enclosure area, m2Booth dimensions, cmManhole dimensions, cm
widthdepthheightwidthheight
Little ones< 50< 67055603040
Average50 – 606-1011575803550
Large> 60>10135100954060

For small breed dogs

Small breed dogs, for example, pug, dachshund, Basenji, Klee Kai, etc., are classified as pets that live in the house. If they stay outside for a long time, they can get sick, or even worse, die. The enclosure for these pets is used exclusively for preventive purposes and for the entertainment of their four-legged companion. The booth in the structure can be replaced with flooring, where the dog could rest. When arranging the site, the following points are taken into account:

  • The building area does not exceed 6 m2. If it is larger, the animal will begin to experience discomfort and fear.
  • The height of the walls is determined empirically, but in most cases 1.5 m is sufficient.
  • The optimal size of the structure, determined by professional dog handlers, is 2x3 m.
  • You can do without a roof and provide partial coverage. Small dogs should not be exposed to rain or bright sunshine.
  • A small mattress is suitable as a bed.
  • The fence is made of wood and metal and has 2 or 3 closed walls.
  • The floor is only wooden.

For medium breed dogs

Medium breeds include the White Swiss Shepherd, Bull Terrier, English Bulldog, and others. They are free to live outside the home. For their comfortable living, it is enough to equip a permanent site. It must have a booth, an area for eating, and useful space. The aviary must meet certain requirements:

  • The total area is from 6 to 10 m2. With lower values, the dog will feel cramped.
  • The height of the partitions is within 2-2.5 m.
  • The optimal size of the pen is 3x3 m; other models are possible, depending on the length of the dog.
  • If the building is planned to be used all year round, then the floor covering is made of wood and an additional layer of insulation is provided.
  • Slate is used as roofing material.
  • Brickwork and natural wood are used for the walls, one of them is left open.

For large breed dogs

Large dogs include Great Dane, Caucasian Shepherd Dog, English Mastiff, Bully Cutta, and other breeds. Large dogs simply cannot live at home, they do not like confined spaces, they need freedom. In a cramped room, a pet develops anger and aggression, which can lead to sad consequences both for the owner himself and for guests or loved ones. When setting up an enclosure, it is worth remembering:

  • The area of ​​the pen must exceed 10 m2. Large dogs love space.
  • The height of the walls varies from 2.5 to 3.5 meters.
  • The size is calculated individually, it can be 3x4 m, 4x4 m, or more. When 2 individuals live, the area increases by 1.5 times.
  • The remaining parameters are similar to those discussed above. The enclosure should have a large warm booth, an insulated wooden floor, laid on a concrete base.
  • The iron bars must be reinforced so that a large pet cannot damage them.
  • At least one north side must be closed.

Features for puppies

Usually puppies are raised by a bitch. For these purposes, an enlarged capital enclosure is provided, divided into several functional zones. It will be equipped with a separate room, fenced on all sides. Essentially, a simple pen made from standard materials is used. In it, kids adapt to their future life.

For small breeds of dogs, small temporary structures are specially purchased and made with your own hands, which allow you to protect inquisitive pets from moving around the apartment or house. They are needed for the initial training of a dog. For a comfortable stay for the puppy, they will be equipped with:

  • a place to sleep;
  • eating area;
  • a tray for dealing with natural needs;
  • various toys that contribute to the development of the baby.

Outdoor enclosure 10. Built according to the standard accepted in service dog breeding.

Well, that says it all. He is inconvenient in every way. Consists of two compartments separated by a solid wall and a door. The second compartment contains a dog house. It’s not clear where the dog’s walking area is and where the dog’s living area is located. Such an enclosure was built for the Central Asian Shepherd Dog Surkhan.

The standard outdoor enclosure recommended by the service dog breeding textbook is absolutely unsuitable for keeping dogs!

With such a design of an outdoor enclosure, it is difficult to accustom a dog to clean behavior, and training (training a dog not to bark, not to jump on the front lattice of the enclosure, or to go into the kennel when cleaning the premises) is out of the question. But in service kennels, trainers don’t bother with such problems! They have more important things to do...

Arrangement of a site for an aviary

From a purely structural point of view, the enclosure can be either a free-standing block structure or a covered terraced area with a fence. We suggest considering the latter option for several reasons:

  1. It is easier to attach such an enclosure to a building where a feeding trough and a sleeping place will be organized.
  2. The structure is less susceptible to subsidence and distortion.
  3. The paved area is easier to clean.
  4. Objectively, the need to move the enclosure is extremely small, and the hassle of assembling the frame base is much greater.

Before preparing the site, markings are carried out. The enclosure can have any wall contour and size, but keep in mind that an adult large dog requires quite a lot of space. An adult German Shepherd, for example, should be provided with a walking space of at least 5–8 m2; a Caucasian or mastiff will need about 10 m2.

In the marked area, you need to remove the soil using a shovel and fill the resulting space with equal layers of fine crushed stone and sand. The height of the bedding should be such that after laying the material used, the site rises above the adjacent soil by about 30–50 mm. The surface must be tightly compacted and leveled with a lath; the area must be paved without additional compaction.

It is recommended to surround the base of the enclosure along the perimeter with some kind of curb stones, for example, bricks on the edge, the upper edge of which will be flush with the general plane. It is also possible to form a slope of about 2:100 for easier wet cleaning.

The material for the paved surface can be chosen relatively freely. Concrete slabs, paving slabs, and substandard bricks are suitable. The smaller the size of the elements, the better: this way the surface will absorb moisture faster. After laying the covering, the cracks must be thoroughly sanded.

Outdoor enclosure 11. Bad example to follow.

Finally, I must show a dog enclosure, which can be found at hunting bases, and perhaps even among some owners. Dogs in such enclosures literally live among their excrement and the corresponding odors from it. I showed this enclosure because it just fell into my hands when I was looking in the archive for examples of outdoor enclosures.

In hunting farms you can still find such poor enclosures for dogs, which best speaks of the culture of keeping hunting dogs

How to build an enclosure for a dog on a site with your own hands

The construction of the enclosure consists of the following stages:

  1. Preparing the foundation.
  2. Frame installation.
  3. Floor covering.
  4. Walling.
  5. Roof installation.
  6. Connecting communications (lighting, heating - if necessary).
  7. Door installation.

Note! Before bringing your dog into its new home, you should carefully inspect all internal surfaces for sharp corners and check that feeders and other elements are securely fastened. You should also make sure that the door is locked securely.

Arrangement of a site for an aviary

The area for the enclosure should be level so that precipitation does not accumulate there. When installing the base, the enclosure is raised above the ground, which provides additional ventilation and thermal insulation, and protects from moisture.

Typically, columnar foundations are used for street structures. For a heavy brick or block enclosure, a more durable strip foundation is poured.

Flooring

First you need to decide on the type and material of the floor. It can be concrete, asphalt, wood or open ground.

Concrete floors freeze in winter and cause various diseases in dogs. Another material with similar properties is asphalt. But in the summer it gets hot, and special equipment is required to install it. Wooden floors retain heat well, but they need to be treated with special products that protect the boards from moisture and prevent rotting and mold.

Important! To protect against moisture and frost, the floor is raised above the ground to a height of 30 cm. The wooden floor is made from edged boards with a minimum thickness of 40 cm and timber with a rectangular cross-section

Stages of work:

The wooden floor is made from edged boards with a thickness of at least 40 cm and timber with a rectangular cross-section. Stages of work:

  1. Treating wooden parts with an antiseptic.
  2. Making floor joists and timber frames.
  3. Laying out the boards on the frame and then fixing them with self-tapping screws.
  4. Coating with paint or varnish.

If the dog cannot move freely around the yard, but spends all its time in the enclosure, it is advisable to make a combined floor - wooden boards and uncovered areas of earth. After all, dogs are more accustomed to relieve themselves in open ground.

For your information! If you leave the floor completely uncovered, there is a high probability that the dog will dig under and get out of the enclosure.

What to make the frame from and how to sheathe it

The frame must be strong and reliable. It is made of wooden beams, metal pipes or profiles. An intermediate post is also installed to install the door.

The frame must withstand the weight of the sheathing material and mechanical stress

Next, walls are erected, 2 or 3 of which must be solid. They are made from brick, blocks, wood or plywood. The remaining walls should be completely mesh or contain a mesh insert so that the dog can observe what is happening around and guard the house.

Do-it-yourself installation of the roof of a dog enclosure

The roof is designed to provide protection from precipitation and shelter from sunlight. The single-pitch design is the easiest to implement. The roof can cover part of the site or the entire territory. The material used is corrugated sheets, awning fabric, soft tiles or roofing felt.

Important! To better maintain the temperature inside the room and protect against loud sounds, noise and heat insulating layers should be laid. When using corrugated sheets or slate, the work is performed in the following sequence:

When using corrugated sheets or slate, the work is performed in the following sequence:

  1. Installation of a wooden frame.
  2. Covering the frame with OSB sheets (when using soft roofing material).
  3. Laying roofing material.

When using awning fabric, the roof is initially sewn in accordance with the dimensions of the metal frame. Then it is pulled and secured. This option is the easiest to implement. But the finished product is expensive, and sewing a homemade canopy is quite difficult.

Toilet in the enclosure

A permanent enclosure is a full-fledged dwelling, so it must contain all the necessary amenities: a bed, a feeder, a bowl of water and a toilet.

When the toilet is in one place, the dog gets accustomed to order and stops marking its territory in different places. An open plot of land is used as a toilet. A special post is installed for male dogs.

For your information! The toilet needs to be cleaned every day to prevent the spread of pathogenic bacteria and protect your pet from infections. To simplify the cleaning process, make a slight tilt towards the wall of the enclosure. Then for cleaning it is enough to simply knock down all the waste with pressure from a hose.

Conclusions:

I hope you have become sufficiently familiar with examples of errors in the designs of various outdoor enclosures and will not repeat them.

Let me remind you that an outdoor dog enclosure must meet the following requirements:

An outdoor enclosure for a dog is necessary not only to preserve its health, but also for the convenience of its training and maintenance. Because it is in the enclosure that the training of the dog according to the course of leadership and role training (LIROS) and even its preparation for protective work should begin.

Source

Roof structure

Most dog breeds require a sheltered enclosure, even if the kennel is protected from rain. With the barrier design described above, laying the roof will not pose any particular problems. Along the slope in increments of 60–80 cm, you need to screw several 40x40 or 50x50 mm beams, resting them on the upper horizontal connections of the front and rear walls. A roofing type sheathing is laid on top of the beams, usually an unedged board up to an inch thick.

The most budget option for roofing is corrugated sheeting or slate. Usually, the remains from building a house are used for these purposes. The only requirement is to ensure that the roof is wide enough in the front part to prevent slanting rain from entering the enclosure. It is recommended to secure a gutter at the back so that the runoff from the roof does not wet the cladding of a blank wall, this is especially important if the ground behind the enclosure is in constant shade.

What kind of floor should I make in the enclosure?

Good afternoon, I would like to ask, what kind of floor should I use for my shepherd’s enclosure? It won’t be possible to leave the ground, it will be digging, I found that wooden ones are needed, but it’s also not easy to lay the boards on the ground, we are going to cement it, and the question arose, will it be cold on such a floor? Maybe it's better to use bricks and then boards? Or does the cement fit under the boards?

Our enclosure is completely filled with cement mortar. For a place to relax on the street, we allocated an area of ​​about 1.5x1.5 m. The husband of these dimensions built a kind of “pallet” (10-15 cm high), covered it with plywood on top, and then with a rubber-based carpet on top, it was warm , and durable and does not require special care. This tray is portable, meaning that in cold months it can be pulled out to a sunny place, and in hot months it can be moved into the shade. Thus, the dog, walking around the enclosure, enjoys basking in a spacious, warm and cozy “place”.

I think that if you put boards on the cement, it will be fine. The sleeping place, of course, should be made warmer, preferably in the form of a kennel with an additional floor, bedding (preferably made of hay), and insulated walls. You can watch the dog. In the summer, it can be hot for her in the kennel, then it is better to equip her with an additional bed outside, such as a low trestle bed. It is better in a place where the dog likes to rest.

Pour the cement evenly and be sure to make a slight slope. In this case, it will be easy to wash the floor. And on top there is a pallet or several pallets made of removable boards, they can be removed and dried if necessary.

The floor in the enclosure definitely needs to be made of wood. The boards should not be laid on the ground, but on a ramp. It is advisable to pour crushed stone under the ramp, on which to lay tiles. It is advisable to equip the drain by laying the boards on the floor at a slight angle. This will allow you to thoroughly rinse and refresh not only the floor in the enclosure, but also its walls with water from a hose in the warm season.

I did the following: at the site of the enclosure, I dug a hole 20 cm deep and covered it with expanded clay. On top I placed a wooden rack made of 50 mm boards. The floor does not get cold in winter. Excellent drainage. I laid a thick board from the experience of previous practice. The dog can easily lift up smaller thicknesses with its claws. I think my experience will be useful to you.

I have a flooring made of paving slabs, and there is an aviary on it. Inside, half of the enclosure is covered with a wooden shield.

For convenience when cleaning the enclosure, we concreted the floor. Part of the territory was left without flooring, and part was paved with thick boards. At any time of the year, a dog can hide in a booth, but in the summer it wants coolness. On hot days, we wash off the dirt in the enclosure with water every evening. There is no hassle with the boards; they are securely fastened into a common flooring and well sanded. The only drawback is that the dog sometimes chews the edges, but they are not difficult to replace with new ones. The most important thing to remember is that this is an animal and it is adapted to life on the street, with the exception of pocket and small short-haired breeds.

I don’t think that this set of chemistry is harmless to anyone’s health. Including dogs.

The parents have a wooden floor on supports and made with a slight slope to drain urine and water during cleaning.

We have a brick enclosure with a booth. There are boards on the floor with small cracks, when I use a Karcher, water flows between the cracks. But the boards are not lying on cement, but on a metal corner, welded to the wall of the enclosure, with a concrete floor underneath. But we don’t put anything in the booth for the winter, and it’s not clear whether it’s cold there or not.

Source

General considerations about the aviary

It is worth noting that, for all its simplicity, building an enclosure is not the most primitive thing. The main thing in it is the design and choice of material, as well as taking into account the characteristics of the dog. If these requirements are not met, the enclosure will become a source of inconvenience and problems for both you and your pet.

  1. The size of the enclosure depends on the size of the dog. If her height is:
    • up to 0.5 meters at the withers, then she needs an area of ​​6 square meters. m;
    • from 0.5 meters to 0.65 meters – 8 sq. m;

  2. more than 0.65 meters – 10 sq. m.
  3. Similar sizes are necessary when keeping an animal around the clock. But if the dog has the opportunity to move freely around the territory, for example at night, then 6 square meters is enough to keep it. If several dogs live together, the area increases by about one and a half times. The same must be done when keeping a bitch with puppies.

  4. Floor. Most often it is made of concrete; it is easier to make it yourself. However, it should be taken into account that such a floor freezes very much and the dog can get cold paws. Therefore, it would be best to lay a wooden covering on top; in principle, a square of 2x2 m is enough.
  5. Walls. One of them, the front one, should look like a lattice, allowing the dog to observe the territory. It is best to weld it from pipes, for which it is advisable to use ordinary ones, galvanized pipes are harmful to health. The fence pitch for large dogs should be 100 mm, for small dogs – 50 mm. You should not use a mesh, as the animal will try to chew through it and ruin its teeth. Metal parts need to be processed - remove rust and also paint.
    For the remaining walls, it is best to use wood, boards 20 mm thick: they must be well planed on all sides, and no loose knots or cracks are allowed on them. It is imperative that the boards be treated with antiseptic preparations and fastened with self-tapping screws.

    At the front of the enclosure there should be a door that opens inward and a feeder located at a distance of 200-300 mm from the floor surface. The door should have at least two locks (inside and outside) and eyelets for a padlock.

  6. Roof. Any material is suitable for it, but a soft coating is best. This will avoid excessively loud sounds during rain or hail, which are harmful to the dog's ears. When constructing a roof, the use of nails is unacceptable.

What is an aviary

An aviary is a fenced area for keeping poultry, pets and dogs. It may or may not be covered.

One of the options for respectable pets

A dog enclosure is a building in which an animal can be kept. For large dogs, the enclosure is made outdoors, and in such a way that it can withstand the pressure of the animal for a long time.


This is an enclosure (fence) for small dogs

For small domestic dogs, an enclosure usually means a portable fence that allows you to limit their movement. The same enclosures are usually needed for older puppies, so that they do not wander around the house.

Construction of an aviary

The entire process of building an enclosure can be divided into 6 stages:

  1. sizing;
  2. selection of flooring material;
  3. wall installation;
  4. choice of roofing;
  5. door/gate installation;
  6. building a booth.

It would also be a good idea to provide a special “window” through which you can feed the dog without opening the enclosure door.

Sizing

The correct size of the enclosure is a very important parameter. If the enclosure is too small, it will be very difficult for your dog to stay in it. At the same time, pressure will be exerted not only on his psychological health - a cramped enclosure can become a breeding ground for diseases.

Of course, the larger the dog, the larger the enclosure should be. If a dog's height is 0.5 meters, it will feel great in a 6-meter-long enclosure; for pets whose height is 50-70 centimeters, it is necessary to build an 8-meter enclosure; for dogs of larger height, the length of the enclosure should start from 10 meters .

However, if you plan to periodically release your pet, the calculated size can be reduced by 1-2 meters.

Choosing flooring material

Of course, you can leave the floor earthen, but, as we have already said, firstly, it will be very difficult for your pet in the winter, and secondly, in the summer the dog will be constantly dirty. In addition, the pet can dig a hole and get out of the enclosure.

The easiest way is to make a concrete floor; it’s not a troublesome task - pour it in and wait until it dries. However, in winter, concrete gets very cold, and excessive cold can lead to rheumatism in your pet's paws.

Probably the best material for flooring is wood. However, there is an ideal option - concrete covered with wood on top. In this case, the dog will be comfortable and there is no need to be afraid that the flooring will quickly rot.

Wall installation

The material of the walls does not greatly affect the comfort of the pet, although, of course, he will be more comfortable in a wooden house than in a metal one. At the same time, the installation of wooden walls will be easier - when using metal, you will have to deal with welding, and this is not such a simple procedure. In addition, wood is cheaper, but wood still has one significant disadvantage - it is not as durable as metal.

If you choose durability over other advantages, you need to know that galvanized metal cannot be used, as it is harmful to animals.

The best option is to make three walls of metal or wood, and use mesh for one. Many people use chain-link mesh as a mesh, and this, of course, is economical, but dogs love to chew on the chain-link, thereby damaging their teeth, so it’s better not to skimp.

By the way, if you use wood, be sure to polish it and treat it with an antiseptic.

Door/gate installation

It is better to build the door into a lattice wall; you can even purchase a lattice in which the door is already built

Important! The door must open inward - this way the dog will not be able to get out on its own if you suddenly forget to lock the enclosure

Enclosure sizes

To make an aviary with your own hands, you will first need to decide on the size. It all depends on the breed, or rather, on the size of the dog. The larger it is, the more spacious the enclosure it needs for normal well-being. For shepherds, huskies and other not too large dogs, a pen with an area of ​​6 meters per individual is sufficient. For Alabais, Caucasian Shepherds, Mastiffs and other large breeds, much more is needed. If the pen is considered only for “locking it while someone comes,” then you can fence off the same 6 squares. Otherwise - at least 8

We assume that the depth of the pen is desirable to be at least 2 meters. The width “emerges” from the required area and the available free space.


Recommended enclosure area for large and medium dogs

Usually the enclosure is made covered. You can leave part of the area without a roof so that your pet can bask in the sun if desired. But you shouldn’t leave the area unprotected: either your dog will run away or someone will come to visit. Instead of a “normal” roof, there may be a lattice made of rods - there is enough light and there are no surprises to expect.

If the dog will spend the winter in the enclosure, you can provide a winter road or install an insulated booth. Most likely, your watchman will like the second option better. They often prefer to sit on the roof of the booth, since there is a better view from there, and not everyone agrees to go into the closed part - they can’t see anything. You can quickly stick your head out of the booth, but you have to run out of the winter road. In general, you better know your pet's personality. An enclosure is not always built because it is cheaper, but so that it is durable, reliable and comfortable for the animal.

What height should a dog's enclosure be? Since it’s up to you to clean anyway, the height is taken so that you can move inside without problems. Usually the height is from 180-185 cm, but depends on the height of the owner.

Northern regions may require an insulated winter road

If you are going to keep a dog in an enclosure only for a short period of time - neighbors, construction crews, etc. will come. — they only make a pen with a roof. If you plan to leave the animal behind the fence for a long time, you also need a booth. It can be placed inside or attached.

Types of enclosures

Before you start building an enclosure, you need to choose its type, type and size. The choice depends on the size, age and sex of the animal, construction materials and other factors. Enclosures are divided into 2 types: outdoor and indoor.

Shepherd dogs feel cozy in the winter enclosure

Outdoor enclosures

Outdoor options are most often used for medium to large dogs with long hair, such as a Rottweiler or German Shepherd. Such designs are intended for:

  • restrictions on the walking area;
  • organizing your own space for your pet;
  • animal protection;
  • simplifying training.

Note! The enclosure limits the space through which a dog can move outdoors. This allows you to preserve the beds in the garden and plants in your private area. This is also convenient when guests visit, when a large dog can scare people unfamiliar to it. In addition, in a confined space, a dog can more easily learn commands and be trained.

An outdoor enclosure, in turn, can be of 3 types:

  • temporary. Inexpensive option. Usually used in the summer at the dacha or to temporarily house a dog. For manufacturing, a mesh or fence is used. A booth is placed inside the fence or flooring is made;
  • closed. An intermediate option between temporary and permanent enclosures. A closed pen is used for long-term stays of dogs. It consists of walls, flooring and roof. At least one wall must be made of mesh (lattice) so that the dog has an open view;
  • capital. It consists of two zones: a lattice part for walking and feeding, as well as a closed seating area. Suitable for year-round maintenance. The building must be insulated on all sides for a comfortable stay for the dog in the winter.

Any design must contain a walking area appropriate for the size and temperament of the pet. This should be a fenced area, not cluttered with things. The dimensions of the walking space are calculated so that the dog can move freely. The dog should have open access for walks at any time.

Important! To protect from precipitation, they make a canopy or roof, because the dog cannot stay in a small booth for a long time.

Home enclosures

This design is used for:

  • increasing the safety of puppies in the apartment;
  • organizing your pet’s personal space in an apartment;
  • protection of furniture and other household items from damage by a pet;
  • demarcation of housing when a baby or other animals appear in the house.

Small pets need their own space too

A budget playpen will give the female who has given birth a sense of security. It will also help keep furniture, shoes and other items safe, protecting them from damage from the teeth and claws of animals.

For your information! When other pets or a small child appear in the house, the dog may react aggressively. The enclosure will help the dog get used to the arrival of a new tenant.

Typically, such a dog enclosure is a folding mesh fence or a large cage. The net is used for small puppies who will not be able to get out. Cells limit space not only from the sides, but also from above. They are used for adult small dogs. Inside, areas for resting and feeding are organized, and a tray is placed.

Metal, wood or plastic are used as materials for a home enclosure. The design is chosen according to the size, needs and number of pets. Assembling such a pen is quite simple.

Choosing a location for an aviary in the yard

You want to make an enclosure so that your pet feels good, so you need to take into account its character and habits. While in the enclosure, the dog will continue to guard its territory, so it is best to fence off the area on a hill, if there is one. It is very good if the entrance to the house, the entrance to the site is visible, or at least it will be possible to track one of these important points. When choosing a place, keep in mind that your pet needs to see you at least from time to time. You or family members. Otherwise, whining and howling are guaranteed, especially if the dog is not used to restrictions.

When choosing materials, keep in mind that everything that can be chewed will be chewed

When choosing a location, pay attention to the following points:

Taking all these wishes into account is far from easy, but it depends on how well the pet will feel.

General requirements and standards

Before building an outdoor enclosure for a dog with your own hands, you need to prepare a project and complete the correct drawing. It is not necessary to make a professional image, just follow the diagram. The main thing is to display the main points on it: overall size, delimitation of zones, size of the booth, walking area, places for feeding and resting.

Basic requirements for the enclosure:

  • To prevent the dog from being injured, all objects should be secured well and the surfaces should be thoroughly sanded. There should be no gaps in the enclosure through which the dog can get out;
  • when keeping two or more dogs at the same time, it is recommended to delimit the space with partitions so that the animals do not conflict;
  • materials for building an enclosure must be durable, resistant to mechanical and climatic influences;
  • The height of the enclosure must correspond to the size of the dog. A roof that is too low will have a negative moral impact on the pet;
  • Inside you need to place feeders, containers with water, a booth or a covered room for rest.

Note! Husky dogs are hyperactive. They need to provide a large walking area. The minimum size of the fence is 10 m². For raccoon dogs, reliable fencing is required at the top and bottom to prevent the possibility of undermining.

Huskies love a large walking area

Design requirements and materials

Large breed dogs with good coats are not afraid of the cold. If they are outdoors all the time, they grow a thick undercoat, which perfectly protects them from the cold. It is much worse for them if they are either warm or cold. What’s also bad for them is a draft. Then a thick undercoat does not help. Therefore, one of the long walls of the enclosure must be sewn up; one or two of the short ones may be closed. With this device, in any direction of the wind you can find calm and the dog does not have to climb into the kennel.

At least two adjacent walls must be sewn up

What to make the frame from and how to sheathe it

The frame of the enclosure is made from a pipe or corner. It is better/easier to use a profiled pipe - square or rectangular. Wall thickness from 1.5 mm, pipe cross-section for racks 40*40, for lintels - 20*40. And then look at the weight of the dog, the dimensions of the building and the planned materials. Nowadays, finding a corner of normal quality, and even even, is a problem, and straightening it without special equipment will not work. Therefore, it is better, after all, to use a pipe. If you take a corner, then it will have a shelf 4-5 cm and a thickness of 2 mm.


The walls of the enclosure can be made from imitation timber. But the part facing inward also needs to be processed (coated)

As already said, at least the back wall needs to be sewn up, or better yet, two adjacent ones. In regions where wood is inexpensive, they usually use boards or tongue-and-groove moldings - imitation timber, floorboards, etc. We turn the front side inside the enclosure - splinters in dogs are a very unpleasant thing. You can replace the boards with plywood, you just need moisture-resistant, sanded, low-emission plywood (not construction).

Lattice

Often the frame is covered with chain-link mesh or welded mesh, which is used in road or construction work. The chain-link is very unreliable, because if the dog strives to be free, it is not a hindrance to it. They very quickly realize that if you push hard enough, it will bend and sag, and if you apply enough force, it can be broken. This is what usually happens.

A "small" dog escapes through a chain-link fence

Those who are unable to break it with their weight use the cells in the grid as steps. Very convenient, by the way. Once trained, they escape very quickly. And medium and large dogs are usually smart, so escaping in this case is only a matter of time. And if dogs have not yet learned to climb on the mesh, they can be injured by welding points, protruding edges of the mesh, etc. The grid is often attacked, so it is only a matter of time before dangerous elements appear.

And how do they leave the closed enclosure?

If you decide to make a dog enclosure yourself and are a little comfortable with a welding machine, use a rod. Round or square - your choice. You can also install a small cross-section pipe, but it is usually more expensive. The partitions are welded to the frame vertically. The installation step depends on the size of the dog, so that even if it has lost weight it will not fit through, the distance should be less than the width of the chest.

The forged aviary looks solid

If you just don’t like pipes, you can make decorations like cold forging. Just don’t make “steps” or tapering decorations for your dog—they can be dangerous.


Don't leave a gap under the roof

And one more thing: you shouldn’t leave a gap under the roof. Yes, it’s easier to do this way and less material is wasted, but again, dogs are smart and, with a strong desire, they crawl into this gap. And in size it is sufficient even for a large dog to crawl through.

When planning to make an enclosure, the question very often arises of what to make the floor from. The best option is flooring made of boards, without any gaps. Claws can get stuck in the cracks, causing injury. So, a tongue-and-groove floor board is best suited as a flooring.

To solve the drainage problem, it can be done with a slight slope - 1-2 cm per meter. It is better not to paint the boards, but treating them with antiseptics and drying them is possible and necessary. If you want the wood to be darker (less visible dirt), use wood oil with pigment. It is absorbed into the pores, pigment and oils penetrate deeply. A film does not form on the surface, but liquid and dirt are not absorbed. Then the wood is easy to clean. Yes, the composition is not cheap, but the wood becomes much more convenient to use. The coating must be renewed once a year, and there is no need to remove the old one: a fresh layer is applied to a clean, dry base (with a brush or roller).


The floor is usually made of wood

Yes, in order to prevent the floor boards in the enclosure from rotting and to keep it warm, it is best to raise the floor 20 cm above the ground level. In this case, mice and other living creatures will not settle there and the dog will have a better view even while lying on the floor. To prevent it from blowing through the floor at all, you can make it insulated. Throw boards on the bottom, maybe unplaned, on top - a layer of polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam, and a floorboard on top of it.


If you equip the equipment, the dog will have something to do

Sometimes they decide to make a concrete floor in the enclosure, but it is very cold and the dog will be cold in winter. The problem is solved by knocking down fragments of wooden flooring. But they slip and move, which is not for everyone. You can make a double floor - pour a concrete screed with a slope towards the drain, and install the floor 10-15 cm higher. Then the problem of seeping “liquid”, which will be absorbed into the soil, will be solved. This way you can wash the floor in the enclosure and the area, getting rid of smell and dirt.

Roof

The roof of the enclosure can be made of any kind, from any material. You can have a single slope, with a slight slope back, or you can have two or four slopes. To ensure that rain and snow get inside as little as possible, it is advisable to make overhangs, that is, the roof should be larger than the size of the frame. The minimum overhang is 20 cm. If you need to make an enclosure with your own hands at minimal cost, consider the option with a pitched roof. By the way, it can be beveled not only backwards, but also to one side.

Drawing of an enclosure with a pitched roof. It is the most inexpensive and easiest to use

Any roofing material can be used for a dog enclosure. But if you are concerned about the appearance of the site, it is better if, at least in color and texture, it is similar to the roofing material of the house and/or buildings.

Doors and locks

The frame of the door and the posts to which they are attached are made from the same pipe that was used for the frame of the enclosure. Filling is usually the same. Hinges and latches must be secure. The door opens inwards - this makes it easier to control the dog, and there will be less trouble. If the doors open outwards, your dog may accidentally drop you. Some are so happy to see the owner that they can open the doors together with the person, as soon as the lock is opened.


Locks must be secure

Constipation - well fixed. Our alabai coped perfectly with the latch, if you did not lower the latch down. He jumped and knocked on it with his paw until he opened the gate. This is despite the fact that the lock was at a height of about one and a half meters and in order to close/open it you need to press the sash well. It seems that everything you need to know to make an enclosure for a dog with your own hands has been described. All that remains is to discuss the kennel, but a doghouse is a separate topic - there are many nuances.

Source

Requirements for an enclosure and kennel for dogs. How to build?

The conditions in which dogs are housed have a great impact on maintaining their health and performance.
Dogs spend most of the day at their place of placement, where they rest, restore their energy expended during service, in training, and competitions. Dogs deprived of freedom of movement, being in unfavorable housing conditions, are easily exposed to various diseases. On the contrary, properly organized placement of a dog has a beneficial effect on the condition of its body and effectively prevents colds, skin and other diseases. Therefore, the enclosure where the dog is housed must meet certain zoohygienic requirements regarding moisture, light, heat, and air gas composition. The site for the construction of the enclosure must be dry and remote from living quarters, dining rooms, kitchens, stables, pigsties, cesspools, industries with hazardous waste, dusty and noisy roads, car parks, fuel and lubricant warehouses, boiler rooms, manure storage facilities, garbage dumps, toilets and other objects that emit harmful gases and fumes into the air. It is considered the most optimal to remove the enclosure from these structures at a distance of at least 500 meters.

The most favorable areas are places naturally protected from cold winds and sunshine by trees, bushes, etc., and not flooded by rain and melt water.

It is prohibited to place dogs with other domestic animals (in pigsties, stables) or near them, due to the fact that the presence of hydrogen sulfide, carbon dioxide and ammonia in these premises negatively affects the health and performance of dogs.

The area where the dog is kept is equipped with lighting and fenced with a solid fence 2.5-3 meters high, in order to prevent the entry of other animals and strangers into the territory, who may be unwanted irritants for dogs, as well as carriers of infectious diseases. In addition, the fence allows you to prevent the dog from biting strangers if it accidentally leaves the enclosure.

The fencing of the territory can be of various designs: reinforced concrete slabs, brickwork, boards made of boards in a frame made of steel square, wooden fence. It should not have any cracks. To avoid digging by dogs and other animals, the fence can be reinforced with a metal lattice in the form of a “comb”. A thick gate with reliable double-sided locks is built into the fence.

The enclosure serves to protect dogs from harmful meteorological influences (rain, snow, wind, high and low air temperatures, etc.)

and must meet the following minimum requirements:

— it should be convenient for a person to work in it;

— the enclosure must have a booth or a cabin with a booth;

— the enclosure must be protected from precipitation;

— the enclosure must have the following minimum area (see table), while the length of one side should not be less than two meters;

For each additional dog kept in the same enclosure, the area of ​​the enclosure must be increased by at least 1.5 times. Also, the size of the enclosure increases by at least 1.5 times when keeping a bitch with puppies.

These minimum sizes are intended for dogs that spend a significant portion of their time in an enclosure. But, for example, if a shepherd dog moves freely around a protected area in the evening and at night, then you can limit yourself to an enclosure measuring 6 m2.

The floor should have low thermal conductivity, waterproof and durable, with a slope from the side walls (partitions) of the walk towards the center and towards the facade. It can be concrete, or better yet asphalt, since a cement floor is colder, which can lead to rheumatic diseases of the limbs in dogs. In these options, it is mandatory to use wooden flooring with a minimum area of ​​2.0 x 1.5 m.

A good option would be to have a wooden floor in the enclosure. When making a wooden floor (flooring), pay special attention to the quality of the material: it should be a tongue-and-groove board - floor lath (at least 35 mm thick), high-quality planed, without wane, without falling knots, without signs of rot. The use of core boards is not permitted. Pay attention to the presence of reinforcing joists under the floor - the floor should not sag or wobble. When making the floor, it is necessary to ensure the presence of a ventilated space under the floor of at least 50 mm, which prevents the penetration of parasites and moisture from the soil, ensuring greater durability of the floor. If you want to cover the bottom of the enclosure with stone, brick, etc., then you need to leave ventilation holes. Before installation, the floor lath must be treated on all sides with wood-protective anti-rot impregnation in two layers. The floor lath is secured to the joists using self-tapping screws; the use of nails is not allowed.

Fences - walls . At least one side of the enclosure must be lattice and provide the dog with visibility. The use of mesh as fencing is strictly prohibited, because dogs can damage their teeth trying to bite through it, and dogs can also “knock out” the wicker mesh with their paws. For lattice fencing, no compromises are allowed - only pipes. The recommended pipe pitch is 100 mm for large dogs, 50 mm for small dogs. All metal elements must be properly welded and cleaned. Burrs are not allowed on any metal elements (door, feeder, pipe joints, etc.). All metal elements must undergo a full painting cycle: cleaned of rust, primed, coated with enamel using hot painting. The use of galvanized pipes and powder coating of pipes is not allowed, because there is no confidence in their harmlessness. When purchasing an enclosure, make sure that the metal elements are primed.

To fence other walls, it is possible to use various materials: flat slate, metal corrugated sheets, cladding boards.

The most justified from the point of view of comfort is the use of wooden panels. In this option, a dry cladding board with a moisture content of 10-15% is used, planed on 4 sides, at least 20 mm thick and having a tongue-and-groove joint. Requirements for the board: high-quality stitching, no wane, no unfused (falling out) knots, no core cracks. The cladding board must be treated on all sides with wood-protective anti-rot impregnation in two layers. The boards must be fastened using stainless steel screws, with the holes pre-drilled (otherwise, when the screws are screwed in, the board splits, into which moisture gets in and the process of wood rotting begins). Wooden wall elements should not come into contact with the soil (concrete, asphalt or other base of the enclosure or the base of the enclosure).

As a rule, the front side of the enclosure is equipped with a door and a feeding trough.

The door should open exclusively into the enclosure and close well from the outside and inside with a reliable lock. It is recommended that the door has eyelets for padlocks.

The feeder is used to supply food and water to the enclosure. The feeder is placed at a height of 200-300 mm from the floor, has a rotating mechanism and a latch for fixing in the closed position. This feeder ensures safety when strangers feed dogs (for example, when the owners leave).

Types of enclosures

The main classification allows you to divide structures according to the place of application:

Outdoor enclosures

. They are used for permanent or temporary maintenance of large and medium-sized breeds, mainly long-haired ones. Buildings for permanent use are made permanent, with solid walls and small inserts of mesh or lattice. As a rule, such structures are additionally heated to make them comfortable in winter. As for seasonal buildings, such outdoor dog enclosures are more often used in the summer, for example, on a site where a family and their pet come for the summer. Regardless of the frequency of use, it is necessary to take care of the availability of walking space, the size of which depends on the temperament and size of the dog.

Home enclosures

. They are necessary for the safe keeping of puppies, creating a corner for the dog, and demarcating the territory of a house or apartment when a small child is born. The simplest designs are made in the form of a folding fence, and products in the form of a cage provide maximum safety. Inside there is a pet bed or kennel, but if there are puppies inside, you will also need to place a tray there.

Home and outdoor enclosures differ significantly in size Source dekormyhome.ru

Arrangement of an enclosure for dogs: materials, layout, finishing

From this article you will learn how to organize an enclosure for a dog: what materials the structure can be made from, what requirements it must meet. We will talk about the types of enclosures, the features of choice for dogs of different breeds and sizes, we will explain what you need to pay attention to when designing and how to arrange the space so that the pet is safe, while being as comfortable as possible inside.

One of the design options for an enclosure for dogs Source remontbp.com

Base

There is no need to lay a permanent foundation for a dog enclosure. This is expensive and pointless, since the dog doesn’t care much about the fact that the floor underneath him is blown. And dogs are insensitive to ground movements. Most often, ready-made enclosures are installed on bricks or concrete blocks, or even lowered directly to the ground. But if the dog is large and strong, the supporting pillars of the structure are better to be buried and concreted.

Rating
( 2 ratings, average 4 out of 5 )
Did you like the article? Share with friends:
For any suggestions regarding the site: [email protected]
Для любых предложений по сайту: [email protected]