What does a Russian spaniel look like: the history of the dog’s origin and the basics of proper care + reviews from owners

Spaniels are a name that unites a large group of breeds.

It includes breeds such as King Charles Spaniel, Irish Water Spaniel, Sussex Spaniel, Field Spaniel and others.

Russian spaniels are the pride of domestic dog trainers and breeders.

These dogs were bred specifically for hunting in central Russia.

Their ancestors were English cockers and springer spaniels, who passed on their best qualities to Russian dogs.

Origin story and what it looks like in the photo

A favorite pastime of Russian tsars in the 19th century. there was a hunt . At the beginning of the 20th century. English cockers and springer spaniels were brought to Russia, which contributed to the growing popularity of bird hunting.

The positive hunting characteristics and developed instincts of representatives of these breeds were highly appreciated by representatives of the upper classes.

However, these aristocratic dogs with short legs could not move quickly enough across the hunting grounds of Russia, so active breeding work began on crossing them, which resulted in the production of relatively similar dogs.

Targeted breeding began in St. Petersburg in 1927, and the creation of the first club for breed lovers dates back to 1945.

The first official breed standard was developed in 1951, at the same time a stud book was created, and in 1966, at the All-Union Cynological Forum, the final edition of the standard was adopted.

In 1972, Russian spaniels stopped crossing with representatives of other breeds.

Russian spaniels have not yet received FCI recognition.

Description and standard

Russian spaniels are long-legged dogs, squat and strong in build, with strong bones and a muscular body.

Representatives of this breed are slightly taller than English cockers, but much shorter than springers..

Throughout the history of the breed, breeders did not care about the appearance of these dogs, they relied only on their working qualities and endurance, so they do not look glamorous, but they still have a slight charm and discreet grace.

Breed standard:

  • The chest is wide, deep and long, the false ribs are well developed;
  • the back is straight, strong, wide, slightly sloping to a short, muscular and slightly convex loin;
  • The croup is wide, muscular, of moderate length, the stomach is tucked;
  • the head is moderately long, the skull is oval and moderately wide, the forehead is convex;
  • the color of the nose and lips varies from light brown to black;
  • scissor bite;
  • the eyes are oval, large, the iris is dark or light brown;
  • ears with rounded tips, hanging, long and wide, set along the eye line or slightly higher, lying close to the cheekbones;
  • neck of moderate length, with well-developed muscles, set low;
  • limbs are straight, parallel, the hind limbs are set wider than the front;
  • the tail is straight, thick at the base, docked at half its length.

The coat is long, soft, straight or slightly wavy, close to the body, short and straight on the head and paws, longer and thicker on the neck, back, sides and croup.

Breeding Russian Hunting Spaniels

Russian spaniels become sexually mature closer to the age of nine months, but it is recommended to breed dogs only when their final formation occurs, and this occurs at the age of two years. Females are ready to reproduce up to 10 years of age, but experts recommend not doing this after 8 years.

At the initial stage of estrus, the female will not allow the male dog to approach her, so it is better to start mating no earlier than the 11th – 13th day from the start of the breeding period. It is worth paying special attention to the health status of both males and females, who are carefully examined in advance. When preparing dogs for mating, you need to monitor their diet, walks, and physical activity. Before the start of estrus, females are dewormed. During the preparatory period, dogs need vitamins; overfeeding them should not be avoided so that the birth is not difficult.

Mating is usually carried out on the dog’s territory so that the dog feels confident. It is not recommended to feed dogs before this (7 or 8 hours before mating). The female is usually held by the collar, while the male remains free. Repeated (control) mating is carried out a couple of days after the first, but this procedure is optional.

If everything went well, the female becomes pregnant. In general, Russian spaniels are considered to be quite caring mothers; they can entrust their puppies only to their beloved owner. It is not recommended to pick up newborn babies; this is done only when necessary. The mother dog is sensitive to foreign odors and may abandon the baby.

The mother should treat her babies with breast milk for at least a month, and in the best case, for a couple of months, so that the babies’ immunity is strong. It is worth noting that the life expectancy of Russian spaniels varies from 14 to 16 years.

Character traits

Russian spaniels are cheerful, affectionate and friendly dogs with a balanced psyche . Being smart, resilient, energetic and persistent, they are the epitome of ideal hunting dogs.

Representatives of this breed are absolutely tireless at work, but at home they become simply pleasant and good-natured pets who do not care what they do, the main thing is to be close to their owner.

These dogs have a penchant for empathy and, on an intuitive level, are able to detect even small changes in the owner’s mood and quickly adapt to them.

In addition, Russian spaniels incredibly accurately and accurately identify people who should not be trusted: if a pet constantly growls at someone, you should take a closer look at him; this person has not without reason aroused the dog’s suspicion.

Russian Spaniels are very active and need long walks and games. They will be happy to accompany their owner during a walk through the forest or park.

Failure to release pent-up energy can lead to destructive behavior.

The hunting instincts of representatives of this breed are much stronger than the guarding and watchdog instincts, so they should not be assigned the functions of guards. However, in the event of a direct threat, the dog will without hesitation rush to protect the owner and his family members.

Expert opinion

Kozhevin Semyon Kirillovich

Expert dog handler.

Russian spaniels are not only excellent hunters, but also wonderful friends. From an early age, they develop a strong connection with their owner, thanks to which they are able to sense his mood. Sometimes male dogs may attempt to take a leadership position in the house, but this indicates, first of all, that the dog’s upbringing is not going well and the dog simply does not perceive the owner as a leader. It is important to change your behavior with the dog in time and show your leadership.

Owner reviews

Below we have given a couple of reviews from owners of the Russian Spaniel dog breed, which we received in personal messages. If you found these reviews useful, write your review in the special feedback field below and share your experience. After all, a live review from a spaniel owner is very valuable for people considering purchasing a puppy of this breed, who would like to learn more about the wonderful Russian Spaniel dog breed.

Nikolay: “When I was going to get a dog, I had a choice of two breeds: Russian black spaniel and cocker. I doubted that I needed a dog for hunting and fishing. Having studied almost everything about Russian spaniels on the Internet, I gave preference to the ROS puppy. And I was not mistaken. This is an unusual dog. She is at the same time calm at home, active and inquisitive in the forest. It is important to let her express this activity to the fullest. The spaniel is cramped in the courtyard of a multi-storey building; he needs a lot of free space.”

Svetlana: “My brother the hunter has a black spaniel. This is a tireless dog, an energizer battery. Curious, inquisitive, a real explorer! One can envy her energy. The children adore her, she answers them in kind. It’s always fun and interesting with her.”

Advantages and disadvantages

Avid hunters, speaking about the merits of Russian spaniels, first of all note the hunting instincts of these dogs.

But more and more often, representatives of this breed are simply kept as pets, since they also have a number of advantages.:

  • friendly and playful disposition;
  • devotion;
  • courage;
  • love for children;
  • agreeableness;
  • lack of aggression;
  • possibility of apartment maintenance;
  • developed sense of smell;
  • mind;
  • unpretentiousness.

Minuses:

  • need for long walks and active games;
  • hyperactivity;
  • tendency to obesity and allergic reactions;
  • impossibility of use as watchmen and security guards.

Disadvantages also include the need for these dogs to carefully care for their coat and ears..

English springer

The breed can be called the progenitor of all living Spaniels - the most ancient companion and hunter of the English nobility is the Springer. A large dog, reaches 46-56 cm at the withers and weighs up to 30 kg. Stately, muscular, strong, but graceful in movement, light and fast . Dogs were especially popular during the Renaissance: great artists painted them on canvas and described them in novels.

Currently, two types of Springers are bred: working hunters and show decorative dogs. They are not very different in appearance, but have different abilities and degrees of development of instincts.

A good family pet: kind, loyal, active, devoted . The best friend for children, a partner for running and playing. Suitable for active people with free time for walking and hunting.

Springers cannot be left alone for a long time: they begin to whine, bark, and destroy everything around them. Recently, there has been a tendency towards increased incidence of rage syndrome. This is a neurological disease related to epilepsy. At the moment of an attack, the dog does not distinguish between commands and does not understand where it is, and attacks its owners for no reason.

Color variations

In accordance with the breed standard, the coat of Russian spaniels can be one-color, two- or three-color.

Black

The coat is solid black, without white markings or with their presence in clearly defined places (forehead, muzzle, throat, chest, belly, paws, tip of tail).

Brown

This color appears in the absence of black pigment; the eyes and nose are also brown.

Ginger

The color of the coat varies from light fawn to dark red, the nose is black or brown, and the eyes are dark brown.

Two-color

This color can be of 2 types:

  • contrasting - spots of the primary color are located on the white coat, puppies are born with a pink nose and paws with several specks;
  • speckled - almost black coat with blurry, barely visible specks; puppies have dark noses and paw pads.

Both contrasting and speckled puppies have large white markings at birth; the presence of speckling can be predicted by the color of the nose and paw pads.

Tricolor

This color includes the coat of black-piebald and brown-piebald contrasting with tan or speckled colors.

Appearance

A long-haired hunting dog of small stature, strong and proportionately built. The strength of the skeleton and the overall harmony of the build ensure endurance and agility in work. Basic proportions of addition: the ratio “back: loin: croup” is “2:1:1”, respectively; the length of the forelimbs from the support to the elbow is equal to half the height of the dog at the withers, the length of the head is approximately half the height at the withers. High anteriority is characteristic, especially in males. Height at the withers for males is 40-45 cm, for females 38-43, elongation index for males is 110-115, for females 115-120.

Is he good with children and does he get along with other pets?

Russian spaniels get along well with children and love to spend time with them, sharing their love for active and outdoor games . A dog will never harm a child and will always protect him from offenders.

However, this only applies to the owner’s children; Russian spaniels behave warily and even aggressively with strangers and strangers.

Representatives of this breed get along well with other pets, including cats, if they grew up with them.

At the same time, rodents and birds are treated rather negatively - hunting instincts take over and these animals become the object of hunting for spaniels.

How to properly care

Caring for a Russian Spaniel does not require much effort or time . You just need to regularly carry out the necessary hygiene procedures aimed at maintaining the appearance and health of the dog.

Wool and bathing

To avoid the formation of tangles, the coat should be combed with a furminator 1-2 times a week, and during molting and for show animals - daily.

NOTE!

You need to bathe your pet as needed, on average once every 4-8 weeks, using a special shampoo and conditioner according to the type of coat.

After washing, the wool should be treated with balm or cosmetic oil, which will make combing easier and minimize the likelihood of tangles forming.

Ears

To clean your ears from accumulated dust and wax, you need to wipe the inside of your ear 1-2 times a month with a cotton swab dipped in warm boiled water or a peroxide solution.

In addition, the ears of representatives of this breed must be ventilated daily . To do this, you need to stretch your ears by the tips and shake them a little.

Eyes

The eyes of Russian spaniels are not prone to souring and watery eyes, so it is enough to wipe them weekly with a lint-free cloth soaked in chamomile infusion or weak tea leaves.

Teeth

To prevent the formation of plaque and tartar, brush your teeth 2 times a week with a special brush and toothpaste for dogs.

Claws

In summer, if the claws do not grind down on their own, and in winter, trim them with a guillotine nail clipper once every 3-4 weeks.

Do I need to cut my hair? How to cut your own hair

In accordance with the standard, it is prohibited to cut Russian hunting spaniels, but many breeders still trim their dogs, hiding minor defects and emphasizing the merits of the exterior.

The best option is a hygienic haircut:

  • trim the hair around the anus;
  • give the tail a wedge shape;
  • get rid of tangles in the groin area;
  • trim the hair on the paw pads, between the toes and in a circle slightly above the claws.

You cannot cut the tail dewlap or the hair on the back of the limbs or along the underbelly . You need to be careful when cutting hair on the ears, neck and chest, since it is extremely difficult to achieve the correct transitions between them and uncut areas.

If you cut the fur on your back, it will no longer grow back smooth and even.

Key facts

The Russian Spaniel is an energetic, lively, inquisitive, optimistic and friendly pet. Nature has endowed the dog with excellent sense of smell and amazing endurance, which allows it to quickly and easily find birds in marshy or dry areas.

The spaniel is an incredibly smart, loyal and obedient dog that is strongly attached to its owner. He gets along well with small children, cats, dogs, and other pets. Such a pet will be an ideal companion for an active family and is definitely not suitable for elderly and constantly busy people.

Description of the Russian Hunting Spaniel breed includes:

  • high level of intelligence;
  • friendliness, sociability;
  • well developed hunting qualities;
  • easy training and education;
  • rapid adaptation to a new environment;
  • unpretentiousness in everyday maintenance, nutrition, care.

If the spaniel is considered in the role of a hunter, it is worth noting such qualities as: perseverance, activity, endurance and complete obedience. The pet swims well in water, dives, and follows all the owner’s commands if it is raised correctly.

The characteristics of the Russian hunting spaniel breed emphasize that this hunting dog is hardy, energetic, patient, persistent and at the same time attached to the owner and his family.

With proper maintenance and proper nutrition, the life expectancy of the Russian Hunting Spaniel is 9-11 years. For a hunting dog this is a normal period. Long-livers occur, but not so often.

The spaniel tolerates cold well, which makes it possible to keep it in the enclosure of a private house. In the winter season, the owner needs to take care of insulating the booth, since without the proper conditions the dog can get sick.

Life expectancy, health and major diseases

On average, Russian spaniels live 12-15 years. These dogs do not have serious hereditary pathologies, but they are not immune from infections and fungal diseases.

Most often, Russian spaniels are diagnosed with:

  • dermatomycosis;
  • aspergillosis;
  • candidiasis;
  • piroplasmosis;
  • leptospirosis;
  • toxoplasmosis.

In addition, these dogs are prone to:

  • otitis;
  • obesity;
  • food allergies;
  • pyometra;
  • conjunctivitis.

Bitches often experience cases of development of pathologies caused by blockage of the anal glands..

German Wachtelhund

A medium-sized gun dog (up to 50 cm at the withers) . The name translates as “quail”, the main working function of the dog is to lift the bird from the ground to the wing. The animals are stately, beautiful, with a long neck, a typical wedge-shaped muzzle and wavy brown fur.

These are working dogs that need physical and mental exercise. They will not be able to live locked up, not being able to run around enough. If the dog is kept in an apartment, he will need at least 4 hours a day for walking.

The owner needs to prove his leadership to the pet, then the Wachtelhund will trust and begin to obey. In general, dogs are friendly, flexible, and affectionate . The average cost of the breed is 25-40 thousand rubles.

Nutritional Features

You can feed Russian spaniels with natural products or industrial food, it is only important to follow a few important rules:

  • do not mix both types of nutrition;
  • ensure that your diet is balanced and contains all the necessary vitamins and minerals;
  • strictly control the volume of portions consumed by your pet - 40 g/kg weight of dry food and 30/60 g/kg of natural products;
  • Give your dog fasting days twice a month, reducing the daily amount of food by 60%.

IMPORTANT!

The portion can be increased only for animals after illness, lactating bitches and in winter for dogs living in an enclosure.

With a natural diet, the owner has the opportunity to independently choose fresh and high-quality food for the dog, but such a diet requires a lot of time for daily food preparation. In addition, creating a balanced menu is quite difficult.

The pet must be given:

  • lean meat;
  • offal;
  • sea ​​fish;
  • porridge;
  • vegetables and fruits;
  • dairy products;
  • greens as natural dietary supplements;
  • eggs.

Representatives of the breed should not be fed:

  • animal fats;
  • bones;
  • smoked meats and sausages;
  • pickles, marinades;
  • pork;
  • citrus fruits;
  • potatoes;
  • sweets, baked goods;
  • spicy, fried foods.

If we are talking about industrial feed, then their advantage is a much more convenient method of storage and use, as well as a composition enriched with vitamins and minerals.

In addition, a wide range of food allows you to choose a diet for your pet in accordance with its age, health and physiological state.

You should choose only high-quality premium, super-premium or holistic food.

Products from the brands Go, Hills, Royal Canin, Probalance, Pro Plan, Savarra, Acana have proven themselves well..

Menu for the week

Day of the weekMenu
Monday500 g meat, 100 g greens, 200 g oatmeal, 100 g yogurt, 100 g vegetables
Tuesday600 g boiled fish, 100 ml natural yogurt, 100 g vegetables, 50 g cottage cheese, 150 g buckwheat porridge
Wednesday50 ml kefir, 50 g herbs, 550 g offal, 100 g cottage cheese and 100 g vegetables, 150 g oatmeal
Thursday150 g cottage cheese, 50 g greens, 1 egg, 500 g beef, 150 g vegetables, 150 g rice porridge
Friday50 ml kefir, 50 g greens, 550 g offal, 100 g cottage cheese, 100 g vegetables, 150 g rice porridge
Saturday600 g of boiled sea fish, 100 ml of natural yogurt, 100 g of vegetables, 50 g of cottage cheese and 150 g of buckwheat porridge
Sunday500 g meat, 100 g greens, 200 g oatmeal, 100 g cottage cheese, 100 g vegetables

Mating

Mating of a Russian spaniel follows the same rules for most breeds. The owner of the bitch must carefully monitor when the dog begins to heat. Ovulation usually occurs 8-10 days after the appearance of vaginal discharge. It is important to prepare for the moment of mating. It is advisable for the male to know the bitch in advance and be friends with her. A few weeks before mating, deworming should be carried out. If the bitch has problems with excess weight, this also needs to be dealt with. The easiest way to do this is by increasing the amount of physical activity and limiting the consumption of flour and high-calorie foods. The condition of both animals must be satisfactory. This will contribute to a successful mating, the birth will go smoothly, and the puppies will be healthy.

How to train correctly?

In order for the dog to grow up obedient and adequate, it is necessary to begin his education and socialization as early as possible. First of all, it is necessary to clearly define the boundaries of what is permitted, determine the rules of behavior in the house and on the street.

From the first days in the new home, you need to start accustoming the puppy to its name, then to the toilet, then you need to start teaching the dog the commands “Place”, “No”, “Sit”, “Come to me” and “Take”.

Mastering these commands not only allows you to control the animal’s behavior, but also serves as the basis for subsequent training.

CAREFULLY!

A hunting dog that is not trained in basic commands will not live long.

It is better to train the dog in quiet, deserted places, so that it is not distracted by extraneous sounds, and in a playful way, preventing the spaniel from getting bored.

You should not punish your pet; the method of rewarding your pet with a favorite treat is more effective..

Hunting dogs need to master the “Give” command; it should be practiced from the age of 3 months. You need to move on to full training after mastering all obedience commands, after about 4-5 months.

Shchelkovo ROS

INTRODUCTION

I wrote this guide for those who have had a dog for a long time, in childhood, as well as for those who are entering this wonderful world of meeting a four-legged friend for the first time.
I wanted to save you from minor mistakes and initial mistakes, to suggest the basic principles in raising and handling an animal so that you can devote more time to the final stage of learning - exercises, training and hunting. The Russian Hunting Spaniel breed is distinguished by a balanced psyche, friendly character, good trainability and an innate passion for searching and pursuing game. These qualities put it on the same pedestal with other dog breeds known in the world.

We inherited a wonderful breed, appreciate this priceless gift and try to pass it on to our descendants!

Part 1 HOUSE

A spaniel puppy can live in an apartment, in a country house, in a private house, as well as in a well-maintained outdoor enclosure.

Floors The flooring in the room should, if possible, not be slippery; if this is the case, place rugs on the floor in the area of ​​the house or apartment where the puppy spends the most time.

Steps A puppy under 4 months of age should not go down steps until the joints and bones of the forelimbs are stronger, otherwise this can lead to “sweeping” and curvature of the forearms. If you do not have the opportunity to protect the puppy from going up the stairs, when going down, hold the baby by the leash, reducing the load. You should also protect him from jumping off high objects (benches, sofas, porch).

Limit your young dog's climbing of stairs whenever possible. High steps force the short Spaniel to turn his knee outward, which brings the hocks closer together.

Wires in the house Move all wires in the house to a large height or to places inaccessible to the puppy. Try to immediately wean the puppy from showing interest in the wire - to do this, take a wire 2.5-3 m long and hold the end in your hand. As soon as the puppy begins to chew on it, then make a wave and imitate the movements of a boa constrictor, causing big trouble for the baby. It's better if it hurts a little at some point. In this case, the owner must pretend that he is not participating in this and not utter any words. The baby begins to fear wires and avoid them. The lesson should be repeated from time to time, throwing a wire into the room when the puppy is not in it.

Also, if your puppy doesn’t like anti-rodent, you can spray the end of this wire with it.

Place The best place for a puppy will be a corner in the entrance area of ​​the home, but not on the passage, not near the radiator and without drafts. The litter should be thick enough, warm and soft, its approximate size is 60 by 90 cm. It is advisable that the litter have a removable cover that can be washed. For a bedding of this size, a disposable diaper from a pharmacy is suitable; it can be laid between the main bedding and the cover.

Bowl The bowl should be in a place accessible to the puppy at a low height, the surface of the water in the bowl should be at the level of the middle of the puppy's chest. A bowl placed too high will cause more harm than one placed on the floor. It is advisable to feed your spaniel from a stand, raising the bowl to chest level as the puppy grows. This will allow you to form the correct posture and increase your chances of raising a highly forward dog, which is stipulated by the breed standard.

There should be water in the bowl at all times. Choose a bowl size that can accommodate a whole portion of food. When eating, it is better to grab the puppy's ears from behind with a hair elastic.

Collar and leash A leather collar is preferable; its tightening should be such that two fingers can hardly fit under it. Immediately try to attach a tag with your phone number to the collar in case you lose your puppy. Choose a hard leash, up to 1.5 meters long. A roulette leash is convenient only in the first months, when the baby is still content with short walks and does not feel completely confident on the street.

Toys A variety of toys and games with the owner develop the puppy well and subsequently serve as one of the main tools for training. Play with your puppy as much as possible. Never use a sling while playing; it should only be used for exercise. Also beware of squeaky toys - they teach your puppy to chew, which can teach him to chew, crush and maul game. Toys that the puppy happily pulls on ropes are also not desirable.

Diarrhea First, a dry wing can serve as a diarrhea, then a small stick, 3–4 cm thick, wrapped in cloth with feathers tied on the outside. Also a piece of fire hose filled with sand, or best of all, a professional, non-sinking hose from a pet store.

Muzzle Accustom your puppy to a muzzle from an early age. A muzzle will help you in critical and unusual situations (in a hospital, in transport). A fabric muzzle is suitable for a spaniel.

Sometimes you have to use a muzzle outdoors as protection from picking up scattered food from the ground. For such purposes, a light, bulky plastic muzzle is suitable, which does not allow you to reach the food.

Carrying cage For a hunting dog that often goes hunting and walking with its owner, a carrying cage is very useful. When the dog gets used to it, he feels very comfortable, considering it his fortress. This device is especially convenient in the off-season, when a dog can dirty the inside of a car in a matter of seconds. Also, during hunting or competitions, the dog can be left in a carrier in the shade for quite a long time, which is very convenient.

You need to gradually accustom your puppy to a crate from a very early age. When the dog understands that only in a cage will it go on its favorite hunt or in the field, then it will begin to ask to be in it. It is better to keep the carrier cage open at home.

Part 2 PARTY

Walk your dog as often and as long as possible, try to spend more time in the park and outside the city, watch your dog in different situations and notice the nuances of its behavior and mood. The more you know about your dog, the easier it will be for you to understand and train him.

Road The largest number of accidents occurs with dogs on the road. When near the road or crossing the street, always take your dog on a short leash.

How many times to walk You need to go outside with the puppy while he gets used to the toilet as often as possible. You should walk with an adult dog at least 3 times a day - in the morning, afternoon and evening. It is advisable that each walk be at least 30 minutes.

Clothes There is no need to dress a Russian hunting spaniel for a walk, even in the most severe frosts, just shorten the walking time and constantly move with him. The only exception can be a walk with a nursing bitch; she must be dressed in any weather, even in summer, so that she does not get colds in her nipples and mammary glands in the wind. True, sometimes in heavy rain I put a thin Bolognese overall on my dog, but only so as not to wash it of dirt after the walk.

A walk is the best time for exercise. During the walk, in the second part, after your dog has done its toilet and read all the letters and messages, start the exercises. A walk is the best time to repeat commands; it systematizes your lessons. Dedicate only 3 to 5 minutes to this on each walk, and you will achieve good results. Just make sure that the dog doesn’t get tired of the exercises; if you notice this, stop immediately.

Fitness If you like to run in the morning, take your dog with you on a leash, this will help her always be in good working shape and prolong her life. For example, I like to ride a bike in the summer, and Becky and I ride 4-5 kilometers in the morning, and she is so used to running next to me that lately she doesn’t even need a leash. True, this happens in the country, around the village, where there are no cars.

The dog is on the left, the gun is on the right. Try to always lead the dog on a leash near your left leg - this will accustom it and will be useful to you during hunting and exhibitions. Moreover, the habit of walking on the opposite side of the gun will protect the dog from sharp shots overhead, which negatively affect the animal’s hearing.

Be careful - poison! Teach your puppy not to pick up anything from the ground; animals have many ill-wishers. If you find out that there have been cases of poisoning near your usual walk, then walk the dog for a while wearing a muzzle that does not allow you to grab an object from the ground.

Be aware of dogs! If an angry, aggressive dog is running in your direction, you can quickly pick up your spaniel in your arms and turn sideways to this dog, as a rule, this can save your pet.

Part 3 NUTRITION

This chapter was written by my wife Tatyana Batenina, a specialist in tasty and healthy food.

The puppy's food can be natural products or dry food. I adhere to the traditional view and share the well-known idea that feeding dry food over generations can lead to changes in the dog’s chewing function and its jaw apparatus as a whole, which in turn will cast doubt on the dog’s ability to confidently feed killed game and wounded animals when hunting. Therefore, I will not describe the transition from breastfeeding a puppy to dry food, but will only focus on feeding him natural products.

General recommendations Protect your hunting dog's sense of smell. Avoid strong-smelling foods (citrus fruits, honey, garlic, onions, smoked meats). Eliminate all seasonings (salt, sugar, pepper, vinegar, spices, mayonnaise). Avoid chocolate, sweets, and sweet cookies. Do not heat food above room temperature (for the rest of your life) - this greatly dulls a hunting dog’s sense of smell.

The puppy's menu should be varied. From two months (additionally between feedings), introduce raw fruits and vegetables (apples, bananas, carrots, cabbage) into the diet. At this age, add a variety of cereals to your food (rice, rolled oats, buckwheat). You can replace one feeding with fermented milk products (kefir or cottage cheese with kefir).

As the puppy grows, gradually reduce the number of feedings per day, increasing the total volume. By the age of the dog 1 year and beyond - reduce the number of feedings to two per day (morning and evening) or to 1 feeding (evening) - for a huntsman dog. As the puppy grows, increase the size of the food pieces and completely eliminate ground fractions (mashed potatoes, ground or softened food). At the age of 1 year or more, the total volume of food per day for a female is from 0.7 to 1 liter, for a male - from 1 liter or more, taking into account fruits, bagels and other rewards during the day.

For puppies, it is advisable to include vitamins in their diet. At the age of one year and beyond, add dried seaweed from the pharmacy to your food (for better pigmentation).

Try to slightly underfeed an adult dog so that it is always in good shape, and constantly monitor its weight. A sign of a good (working) form of a hunting dog is when its ribs are easily palpable. In this form, the dog will live longer, will not get sick, and will always be cheerful and active.

Immediately on the day before hunting and training in the grounds, do not feed the dog. The day before this event, exclude eggs, cheese and sausage from your diet (so as not to temporarily dull your sense of smell).

Dining room The puppy's feeding area should be constant; there should always be water in the bowl. If there is food left in the bowl after eating, it must be removed. It is advisable to give food to the dog at one time throughout its life (with the exception of the puppy period).

Menu Time, order and set of dishes, as well as the number of feedings, are at the owner’s choice.

8.00h. Chicken with vegetable puree Boil the chicken fillet and chop finely. Mash boiled vegetables without salt (carrots and cabbage in any proportion) with a blender or masher. Add ½ teaspoon of vegetable oil. Mix in any proportion. Approximately 80 gr. the puppy is 1.5 months old.

12.00h. Buckwheat porridge with boiled beef Cook the porridge without salt and add finely chopped boiled beef in a ratio of 3:1 to 6:1. At a later age, replace buckwheat with kernels and reduce the proportion of meat. Add ½ teaspoon of vegetable oil. Approximately 80 gr. the puppy is 1.5 months old.

16.00h. Boiled fish with boiled carrots Boil fish (navaga, pollock or other sea fish) without salt along with carrots in a small amount of water and remove the bones. Mash with a masher and add ½ teaspoon of vegetable oil. Approximately 80 gr. the puppy is 1.5 months old.

20.00h. Raw beef Finely chop the beef flesh with a knife (without veins, films and fat). Approximately 50 gr. the puppy is 1.5 months old.

24.00h. Cottage cheese (preferably calcined*) Mash regular cottage cheese, at least 9%, with a fork and add 1-2 teaspoons of cream. Approximately 90-100 gr. puppy is 1.5 months old**.

*Calcified cottage cheese: For 1 liter of fat milk with a short shelf life (7 - 10 days), add 3 tablespoons (30 ml) of calcium chloride (ampoules from the pharmacy), stir and heat, stirring, without bringing to a boil. After the milk has curdled, stir a little and leave to cool slowly to room temperature, then strain.

**The menu indicates the age of the puppy is 1.5 months, because... Before this age, it is undesirable to separate the puppy from its mother.

Part 4 MEDICINE

Constantly monitor your dog's health; cheerful behavior, silky shiny fur, a wet and cold nose are signs of good health. Feed your dog high-quality natural products, but do not overfeed it, and give it constant exercise while walking or hunting, and it will live with you for a long time and will not get sick.

How to pick up a puppy correctly Take the puppy in your arms with only two hands: one under the chest, the other under the pelvis. This will avoid the appearance of a hernia. Do not take or allow others to take the puppy under your arms, spreading your elbows to the sides.

Vitamins: Place 1-2 drops of Tetravit oil vitamin or its equivalent into your puppy’s food every day. Carrots are very useful, but in moderation, its excess leads to the fact that the dog outgrows the upper limit of the standard and therefore falls out of breeding.

Vaccinations Vaccinate only healthy dogs!

7-10 days after the baby arrives in the house, carry out deworming, for this use a deworming drug “for puppies”.

Give your puppy the first vaccination with a polyvalent vaccine at 2 months and repeat it a month later; before the second vaccination, repeat deworming 2 weeks before. 2 weeks after the second vaccination, you can take the puppy for a walk. If your dog receives raw meat as food, give it an anthelmintic every quarter for prevention.

Vaccination schedules may be different; consult the veterinary clinic where you plan to serve.

Repeat vaccinations at the same time every year. Get your vaccinations done at the clinic and enter information about them in your dog’s medical record. You will need this book when traveling, as well as at exhibitions and competitions.

Showering Washing with detergents is contraindicated for a dog, especially for a puppy whose mother has licked it and thereby created protection for many months. Wash your dog only as a last resort if it has become dirty with chemicals (fuel oil, paint, var, etc.). Here we are not talking about paws - they will have to be washed constantly after a walk, especially in winter, when roads in cities are sprinkled with special products.

Ticks Ticks are dangerous because they carry piroplasmosis, and when bitten they can infect a dog with it.

When the first thawed patches appear on the ground in early spring, start using anti-tick products. You can stop using it only at the beginning of winter, when frost hits and snow covers the ground. In the middle zone - this is approximately from mid-March to the end of November.

A flea and tick collar should not be worn on a puppy under 6-7 months of age; constant wearing of it causes kidney and skin pathology, and non-constant use does not give the desired effect. It is better to use various sprays and lubricate the coat with drops.

The period of validity is indicated on the drip preparation - reduce the intervals of use of the product indicated in the instructions by 5 - 7 days.

After each walk in the forest or in the field, carefully inspect and comb the dog, try to remove all ticks, repeat the inspection several times (after one, three and five hours), as a rule, the remaining ticks again crawl to the surface from secluded places.

Isolate your clothes that you came from the forest in in a utility room and inspect it after a while. Typically, you can find mites on the floors or walls.

The first sign of piroplasmosis is a change in the dog’s mood and behavior. Immediately take a blood test at the clinic, and if the result is positive, apply the treatment suggested by your veterinarian.

Currently, many dogs die from tick bites, especially hunting ones.

Eyes During walks in the field and while hunting, dogs get a lot of small seeds and grass flakes in their eyes. Every time after such walks, “blow out” your pet’s eyes. This is done very simply - with two fingers, spread the eyelids in the area of ​​the conjunctival sac and blow strongly in the direction from the outer corner of the eye towards the sac. After this “operation”, seeds will fly out onto the bridge of the dog’s nose. For prevention, you can use “Diamond Eyes” drops.

Every dog ​​breeder should have tetracycline eye ointment in his first aid kit. It is placed behind the lower eyelid at night when the dog’s eyelids and eyes are cut by grass and bushes or inflamed by snow or seeds after a hunt.

Ears The Spaniel's ears suffer from frequent bathing and poor ventilation. Check your dog's ears periodically and wipe the outer ears with a cotton swab soaked in chlorhexidine. Occasionally air out your spaniel's ears by covering them from behind with a rubber band. If your dog often gets his ears dirty while eating, wash the tips of his ears with soap and water. It is better to thin out the abundant hair around the ear a little with scissors.

The first sign of an ear problem is a bad smell; if the smell persists, contact your veterinarian.

Coat Trimming a spaniel is not recommended, and is prohibited by the breed standard. The coat protects the dog from external environmental influences. This applies to the entire coat of the dog, without exception.

If your pet is excessively furry, trim it with a special comb.

Hypothermia while hunting It is believed that while the dog is searching, it will not freeze. Only this does not apply to severe frosts, and to the off-season if she swam. Immediately after a pond or rain, wipe your dog dry with a towel and do not let him sit in one place. Feed your dog heavily in such situations.

The first sign that a dog is hypothermic while hunting is frequent urination. Seek treatment from a veterinarian immediately and prevent this from happening again this season.

Estrus The dog's first heat can begin from six months to one and a half years, do not be alarmed by late heat - this is normal. You might not have noticed the first heat if the dog is very clean and constantly cleans up after itself. Subsequent heats are repeated at intervals of 6 to 9 months, sometimes once a year.

The first sign of estrus is swelling of the loop, then a bright red discharge appears, then it turns pale and disappears completely. Estrus lasts approximately 3 weeks, and the dog’s behavior changes during this period. The most dangerous period, from the point of view of random mating, is from 10 to 14 days.

During the period of heat, you should only walk on a leash and away from dog parks, take care of the nerves of the owners of male dogs.

You can hunt with a dog during heat, but just do not bathe it, especially in a cold body of water.

If your dog is allowed to climb on sofas and chairs, then it is better to wear panties with a feminine pad at home during the period of heat.

Part 5 EDUCATION

Never work with a dog in a bad mood, when you are sick, and especially when you are drunk. Try not to hit the dog; everything can be achieved with affection and the correct sequence of your actions.

Toilet The puppy pees as soon as he wakes up or eats; this usually happens in the first minutes. Place a disposable diaper next to the bedding and immediately, as soon as the puppy wakes up, move him there and hold him. Once he pees on it, don’t clean it up. Do this several times after sleeping and eating, and he will begin to follow the smell to perform his toilet. Change diapers as needed. This way you will teach him to go to the toilet in one place convenient for you.

After the vaccinations are done and you can go for a walk outside, do the following: pick up the still half-asleep puppy in your arms, take it outside, and place it on the cold ground. Do this several times after sleeping and eating, and the puppy will begin to ask to go outside to use the toilet.

First night At night, the puppy will ask you to come to you, whine and cry. For the first few days, while the new bedding is still unfamiliar, place it next to your bed so that at night, without getting up, you can lower your hand and calm the baby. After just 5 days he won’t need it, and the bedding can be moved from the owner’s bed to any other place. Remember - if you let the puppy into your bed at this time, then it will be impossible to wean him later.

Sofas and armchairs If you allow your puppy to climb onto sofas and armchairs at least once, it will be very difficult to wean him off later. If you want to cuddle or caress him, do it only on the floor.

If, nevertheless, you want to allow him to climb everywhere, be prepared that in the off-season you will need to cover the furniture with covers and change them often.

Lunch in the house Never give your puppy pieces from the table at dinner; if you really want to give him a treat, take the piece to his bowl and give it there. The puppy will quickly understand this and will never ask from the table, and during your lunch he will go to another room. Over time you will appreciate this advice.

Place Never punish a puppy on the spot, there he should feel completely safe, this is his fortress. When he is there, you can give him a verbal suggestion, but no more.

The owner's hand The most desirable thing for a dog is the owner's hand, which caresses and strokes him. It should bring him only the most positive emotions and serve as encouragement. Never hit the dog with your hand and generally try to avoid physical impact, but if an emergency situation occurs, shake it by the scruff of the neck and place your hand on the head, gripping it across.

Leash You cannot whip or beat a dog with a leash, otherwise the leash will cease to be your assistant in training, and the dog will avoid it.

Memory A dog has a short memory, so you should scold it right at the moment of the offense; if you do this later, the dog will not understand.

Praise Praise is an essential communication tool that makes it easy for you to “explain” to her what she did right. Always praise your dog for correctly executed commands or correct independent actions. At the same time as praising her, stroke her breasts; this is a sign of temporary submission that raises her status, just like a relative in a wolf pack does. When handling a dog, remember that a “friend” pats him on the shoulder, a “lower rank” scratches his neck and chest, and a “senior” puts his hand on the withers or head.

Society Be with your dog in different new places as often as possible: in a crowd of strangers, on a bus or train, at a dog park or park, at a party, etc. The more diverse the impressions are, the easier and faster she will adapt to life in society and the more stable her psyche will be, which is extremely important for life in the family and hunting.

Play The most effective method of training a dog is play. During the game, it is easiest to “explain” to the dog what is required of it and teach it to follow commands. Play with your dog as often and as much as possible. Invent new games and have fun with it. The more games a dog knows and can perform various exercises, the better and easier it will be with it on the hunt and in everyday life, the higher the level of development it will be able to rise to.

Punishment or deprivation of reward Rough physical influence on a dog is less effective compared to the method of so-called positive reinforcement. This has long been noticed by trainers, so try not to resort to physical force. The method of positive reinforcement in training is that you give the puppy a favorite activity as a reward, and deprive it as punishment.

For example, you give a treat if the command is executed correctly or vice versa, you let him play with his favorite toy after a well-executed command, you allow him to serve a killed bird during a hunt if the dog did everything correctly, or you deprive him of this opportunity. You don’t even shoot at the bird if the dog behaves badly and reprimand it, or, on the contrary, end the process with a beautiful shot. The dog will quickly understand that he must agree and follow the owner’s command, and only then will he receive encouragement.

If you need to punish a puppy for an offense, do not hit him. Take it by the scruff of the neck, press it to the ground and lightly pat it from side to side, just like a mother does with her baby.

Pack Your puppy believes that he lives in a pack, and will always strive to occupy the top position of leader in the pack as he grows and matures. Your task from infancy is to accustom him to the fact that you are the leader, otherwise he will simply become a despot in your family.

Method one - always achieve the command or do not give it if you feel that it will not be executed. You need to start small, in the game, and not force things.

The second method is to constantly show your leadership in everyday life: allow him to approach the food bowl only on your command, allow him to go outside only after you go out yourself, often pick up the dog in your arms, even against his will, and hold him a little in an uncomfortable position and etc.

Method three - repeatedly demonstrate in class that only you know where the tartar is hidden, or when hunting, indicate where it is best to find game.

The last method is to throw the dog on its side, press it to the ground with one hand by the neck, the other by the body and hold for a while until it calms down, this is what the leader does in a wolf pack. Use this method extremely rarely, only in case of dangerous aggression towards you or your children.

A dog is not a person Do not “humanize” a dog, it is an animal with its own instincts, received from its ancestor - the wolf.

Part 6 COMMANDS AND EXERCISES

The more commands and exercises you can learn with your dog, the higher the level in its intellectual development it will rise and the more interesting and entertaining your communication with it will be.

When to start When the puppy appears in your home, let him look around and get used to it for a couple of days and you can start. The sooner you start playing and teaching your dog, the better, just don’t rush into training, the dog’s psyche must be formed. The first acquaintance with a wild living bird is best done after 6 months. You can introduce your puppy to poultry as early as 40 days; to do this, invite him to catch and try to serve a decoy quail.

Nickname A nickname is one of the most important tools in your communication with your dog, and in some situations it can also serve as a command or a prelude to a command. A wide palette of intonations and ways of pronouncing a nickname will help you more easily convey to your dog your mood and assessment of its actions. It is important to remember that a nickname is a command “Attention!” and one should always sound the same. For example: Julia, Dzhulya, Dzhulka, Zhulka, Julieta are completely different teams that will confuse the puppy.

Voice Commands must be given in a calm, persistent and quiet voice. You will need to shout a command in an emergency situation (car, fight, etc.), and if the dog is already accustomed to loud commands in everyday life, then this will not save him in case of danger.

Whistle To learn commands and exercises, you will need a whistle. The whistle is useful because it reduces the team’s time, and also eliminates the teams’ excessive emotional overtones during training. Choose a special high-pitched spaniel whistle.

Game Try to turn all activities with your dog into a game - this is the fastest and most effective way of learning.

Work and rest It is best for the dog to understand when it is working out and when it is just walking. Therefore, always after class, give the command “go for a walk.” This will help her be more focused in class.

Don't confuse your dog. Choose convenient commands for yourself and never change them, the same command should always contain the same set of letters. Make sure that everyone at home gives only your commands.

Only once Try to give any command only once and ensure that it is carried out. A common mistake made by novice dog breeders is issuing a command multiple times, as if from a machine gun.

Repetition is the mother of learning If you and your dog have learned a command, don’t think that it will last forever; without constant repetition, nothing will come of it; a dog, unfortunately, is not a person.

Basic commands The basic commands include the following commands: “To me”, “Place”, “Nearby”, “Sit”, “Stand”, “Lie down”, “Forward”, “Barrier”, “Look”, “Give”, “Give”, “Fu”, “No”, “Ring”. You will find the method of teaching these commands in any textbook or your instructor will tell you it. You can change the sound of the command to suit you; the only important thing is that the meaning remains the same.

Duplicating commands After you have learned a voice command with your dog, gradually accustom it to the analogue of this command with a whistle and gesture; such commands are irreplaceable when hunting.

Auxiliary commands The more auxiliary commands you learn, the better, and the brighter your communication with your dog will be. Here are some of them: “Show your teeth”, “Give me a paw”, “Another”, “Look”, “Show”, “Lost”, “Dig”, “Go around”, “Voice”, “At home”, “Wash your paws” ", "Wait", etc.

Training Start training only after you have learned all the basic commands with the puppy and have repeatedly checked their implementation. This especially applies to stopping commands in different conditions and at different distances. The smell of game is the most powerful irritant, and only strong basic preparation can help cope with its effects.

Exercises Exercises with a dog include: walking side by side on a leash and without it, shuttle work, serving from land and water, blind serving, searching in a direction, going around dams, going behind a bird, calling for game, etc. Expand their circle, learn new things from other hunters and share knowledge with newcomers.

Water The most important thing is to take your time, and under no circumstances throw the puppy head first into the water. It is believed that he will surface and learn to swim on his own, that’s how it is, but only then will you suffer with him for years.

Do the following - on a hot, sultry day, on the gentle bank of a calm river, or better yet, a pond, play with the puppy so that he is tired and slightly overheated in the sun. Then go to the water, where it is very shallow and up to your ankles, and go into the water. The puppy will become interested, carefully try the water itself and follow you with pleasure. Just a couple of these swims and all the water feeds will be excellent.

Shot And be even more careful with the shot; with an inept lesson you can scare the dog forever. You will need an assistant with a starting pistol, and after a few lessons - with a shotgun. While playing with the puppy in the clearing, or working with him in the field with a shuttle, ask an assistant to fire the starting pistol once to the side. You need to shoot at the moment when the puppy is very busy with exercise and no closer than 50 meters from him. Most likely, he will not pay attention to the shot or will listen and continue his lesson. And that’s what you need, repeat this exercise in other lessons, gradually reducing the distance to the puppy. When he begins to pay attention to the shot and is not afraid, move on to firing the gun into the air away from people and housing. If the puppy is scared, stop immediately and postpone training for 2-3 months, or better yet, contact an experienced instructor.

CONCLUSION

That’s all, dear reader, that I wanted to tell you and warn you about. Take your time, think more before you act, a careless action can quickly spoil it, but you will have to correct it throughout your life.

You are lucky, you got a puppy of the most beautiful and intelligent breed - a Russian hunting spaniel. Love him, understand him, and you will spend the best and unforgettable moments of your life with him!

========================= * The memo was written based on my observations, and also used materials kindly provided by L.Z. Martynova.

Aprelevka December 3, 2022

Note Photos provided by the author of the article.

Popular nicknames

The choice of a nickname for a pet should be approached responsibly. It is important that the dog’s name is easy to pronounce, sonorous and short - animals quickly remember such words and begin to associate themselves with them.

The male can be called:

  • Alan;
  • Archie;
  • Butch;
  • Barney;
  • Thunder;
  • Wild;
  • Kai;
  • Kevin;
  • Muffy;
  • Matt;
  • Noah;
  • Oscar;
  • Pirate;
  • Robie;
  • Roy;
  • Raf;
  • Roni;
  • Ren;
  • Falcon;
  • Sebastian;
  • Sparky;
  • Hoshi;
  • Charlie;
  • Chance;
  • Eric.

Names suitable for girls:

  • Amba;
  • Arina;
  • Amur;
  • Boni;
  • Snowstorm;
  • Dory;
  • Dolly;
  • Dekla;
  • Christie;
  • Lika;
  • Laura;
  • Molly;
  • Mary;
  • Nika;
  • Naida;
  • Puma;
  • Sparta;
  • Arrow;
  • Cynthia;
  • Secret;
  • Ula;
  • Frida;
  • Chara;
  • Yula;
  • Clear.

In order for the puppy to quickly remember his name, you need to pronounce it as often as possible and call your pet by name, treating him with a treat - this contributes to better perception and consolidation of positive associations.

How to choose? Boy or girl?

To avoid the risk of purchasing a sick or non-purebred puppy , you should purchase it only in specialized nurseries from trusted breeders .

It is necessary to inspect the living conditions of the puppies, meet the parents of the future pet, learn about their health, pedigree, awards and titles.

You should also carefully examine the puppy.

He must have:

  • a hump on the nose as a sign that he will not grow up to have a snub nose;
  • scissor bite;
  • shiny coat without dandruff;
  • clean skin without rashes or irritations.

The baby should be active, cheerful and inquisitive, have a good appetite and a friendly disposition.

It’s a good idea to test your puppy’s courage by clapping your hands hard in silence or turning him over and holding him on his back.

A Russian spaniel with the makings of a hunter calmly reacts to noise and physical impact, while individuals with a weak psyche simply run away in both situations.

The gender of the puppy must be chosen depending on the purpose for which it is purchased . Both females and males are well suited for hunting. It is better to purchase a girl for participation in breeding, and a dog for an exhibition career.

Rating
( 2 ratings, average 4 out of 5 )
Did you like the article? Share with friends:
For any suggestions regarding the site: [email protected]
Для любых предложений по сайту: [email protected]