How to cut a dog's hair at home: with scissors, clippers, how to do it correctly

The question of how to cut a dog's hair is of interest to every lover of these animals at one time or another. As you know, in addition to training, walking and proper nutrition, a dog needs periodic haircuts. The opinion that only long-haired dogs need to be cut is wrong. Haircut is, first of all, a hygienic procedure that is necessary to prevent tangles and irritation.

How to cut a dog's hair

Every dog, be it an exquisite decorative baby or a menacing-looking giant dog, needs to care for its fur. A shiny, neat, sleek “fur coat” is not only a reflection of the animal’s good health, but also evidence that the owner treats his pet with love and care. Grooming a dog is a mandatory procedure, without which the pet will never look comme il faut, but its features and frequency vary depending on the breed of the pet and the type of its coat. Most owners, armed with special grooming tools, prefer to cut their dog's hair at home. Four-legged “stars” of the world of cynology, participants in exhibitions and championships, have luxurious model haircuts, as a rule, created by professionals, unless enthusiastic owners themselves study this rather complex craft.

Topic: hair loss on paw

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Haircut types

There are two main definitions for types of dog haircuts: hygienic and model. The first is required for all pets. It includes cutting or trimming overgrown hair on the face, ears, beard, if any, between the toes and paw pads, and in the genital area.

Hygienic also includes trimming the entire body of the dog, which is necessary or desirable in some cases. Among them are severe matting of fur, numerous tangles on all parts of the animal’s body, dermatitis, fleas, and increased secretion of the sebaceous glands.

The hygiene procedure usually ends with claw trimming.

Dogs with undercoat, such as Shepherds, Huskies, Chow Chows, Spitz, Sheltie, Samoyeds, require only infrequent hygienic haircuts. At the same time, radical shortening of the fur, and even more so shaving, is unacceptable for them, since in this case the natural mechanism of thermoregulation is disrupted, which allows the animal not to freeze in winter and not suffer from the heat in summer. In addition, in dogs with a long undercoat, after a radical haircut, hair growth may noticeably slow down and even begin to experience pathological hair loss.

Dogs whose coat does not have an undercoat, and even more so dogs that are distinguished by fast-growing hair (Yorkshire terriers, spaniels, poodles, bichons), need frequent hygienic haircuts (at least one procedure every two months), as well as shortening of the entire coat. the body (to avoid the formation of tangles), and on the muzzle. In the spring, you need to radically trim the fur on the animal’s belly and paws to protect it from ticks.

A model dog haircut involves a certain set and sequence of operations:

clippervek - cutting certain areas of the body bald;
show trim – creating a hairstyle that meets the breed standard;
flatvek - alignment of flowing wool along the length;
blending - thinning wool of different lengths, smoothing the transitions from long wool to shorter ones, that is, thinning, adding volume.

A model haircut for show-class dogs should, of course, be entrusted to a professional groomer, because at championships and exhibitions every detail in the animal’s appearance is important. However, every caring and not devoid of imagination owner who is not too lazy to take a grooming course, which is relatively inexpensive, can give his purebred pet an elegant appearance that basically corresponds to the standard. Even in Moscow, the price of obtaining basic knowledge in the art of dog grooming is quite affordable - from 20,0000 rubles. Considering that groomer services in the salon and at home will cost from 1,500 rubles per procedure, the savings are obvious.

Classification of pubic hair

Density, thickness and curliness

Pubic hair can be either thin or thick, sparse or thick, regardless of gender. The curliness of pubic hair can depend on race, ethnicity, and color (dark hair has more curl than white hair). Curliness can range from very curly to completely straight. Pubic hair has a triangular cross-section; the pubic louse is well adapted to move along such hair.

Color

Pubic hair, like armpit hair, can be very different in color from the hair on your head. For most people, they tend to be darker than the hair on the head, but sometimes they are lighter. The color of pubic hair can be very different: white, blond, red, light brown, black. In the clear majority of cases, the color of pubic hair is as close as possible not to the color of the hair on the head, but to the natural color of the eyebrows.

Degree of hair growth

In women, a smaller area of the body is covered with pubic hair and rarely extends significantly beyond the bikini area. In men, much more often the pubic area is continuous with the hair on the legs and abdomen. This is due to different hormonal levels between the sexes.

In addition, hair may differ in length, position and shape of the hair zone, etc.

How to train a dog to get a haircut

Dogs often do not like manipulations with their fur, the sounds of a working clipper, or the vibrations it creates. Dogs can growl, bare their teeth and even bite. However, if your pet is taught from early childhood that combing and cutting are not scary, but quite tolerable and even pleasant procedures, he will not object to them.

The puppy is first taught to comb: place the dog on a stable surface and run the comb over the fur several times, affectionately saying “let’s comb,” then reward it with a treat and let it run for its own pleasure. After the baby gets used to this procedure, you can already arm yourself with scissors and imitate a haircut, cutting off tiny fragments of hair. This action can be accompanied, for example, with the word “getting a haircut” and also concluded with a treat.

To prevent your puppy from being frightened by the sounds of a hair dryer and clipper, try to make sure that he is simply present in the room where you will dry your hair with a hair dryer. Having realized that an electric device is not a scary beast, the dog will quickly get used to the shaving procedure.

If the dog has not been accustomed to grooming since childhood, the first such manipulation should be carried out by an experienced groomer who knows how to interest the dog, not frighten it, and, if necessary, pacify it. In some cases, particularly aggressive animals may need to be given sedatives, although many veterinarians do not recommend this.

It happens that a dog that has always calmly tolerated a haircut suddenly begins to be capricious and anxious on the eve of the procedure. This may mean that she experienced pain during the last session. If it took place at a grooming salon, you may need to think about changing the groomer or where to get your pet's haircut next time.

Washing and moisturizing paws

After walks, especially in winter, you should definitely wash your paws with warm water, inspecting them for cuts, damage from insect bites, and redness of the pads. Washing will help prevent your dog from licking chemicals from his paws, which can cause poisoning if they enter the animal’s body.

After washing the paws, it is important to dry them thoroughly and then lubricate the pads with a moisturizer, such as dog cream, balm, or Vaseline, which creates a protective layer.

Increasing the humidity in the room will help prevent irritation and dryness of the pads. But the appearance of cracks on the pads may be due to aggressive environmental influences, lack of vitamins and minerals (zinc) in the diet, dehydration, and the negative effects of detergents left on the floor.

How to cut a dog's hair at home

Before grooming, your pet should be bathed, dried afterwards, and then combed. For dogs with long, thick hair, especially if it is already quite tangled and matted, it is recommended to brush it before bathing. If tangles form, try to untangle them with your fingers, but particularly densely matted hair will have to be removed using a tangle cutter. When separating or cutting off a tangle, try to hold the skin around it with your fingers so that it does not pull back - this will save the animal from pain.

If you are performing a classic hygienic haircut, after bathing and drying your pet, proceed to the next procedure - cutting off the overgrown hair in the groin area, anus, at the base of the tail and, if necessary, the armpits of the animal. Please note that the genital area is a problem area on the dog’s body, and it must be treated with special care and attention. The procedure can be performed using a clipper using medium-sized attachments, or special scissors, which will provide a more delicate treatment. To avoid injury, hold your dog's genitals with your hand.

Next, start trimming the fur between the paw pads. This procedure is carried out using a machine (the nozzle must have a thin grip) or scissors. In the same way, remove the overgrown hair on the face.

Grooming animals with fast-growing hair, such as spaniels, poodles and terriers, includes additional steps: cutting the hair with a clipper on the stomach, neck, upper part of the body and on its sides, thinning, trimming the hair. After processing the body, the hair on the dog’s limbs, tail, muzzle and ears is cut or trimmed. All these manipulations are carried out in accordance with the standard of a particular breed.

The haircut is completed by trimming the claws. This procedure is carried out using special nail clippers and requires increased attention, since the dead part of the claw is closely adjacent to the part where the blood vessels are located.

Dog paw massage

Paw massage is useful, which is pleasant for dogs, has a relaxing and calming effect, and helps improve blood circulation. Medical massage is recommended for animals with limb diseases, for example, for paralysis or arthritis.

Paw massage usually completes the overall body massage procedure, but you can massage them separately, 2-3 times a week for 3-5 minutes. You need to carefully spread your fingers and rub the skin between the pads with gentle movements.

Safety rules during grooming

To avoid injury, it is advisable that the dog moves as little as possible during the grooming process. If it becomes difficult to reach certain places on the animal’s body or change the angle of the machine or scissors, then it is better to change the location or position by the groomer himself.

The clipper should move parallel to the skin, without pressing into it. If there are folds of skin on the dog’s body, you need to smooth them out with your fingers and only then begin to trim this area.

To avoid damage to the animal's skin, haircuts should be done in the direction of hair growth (exceptions include trimming poodle paws).

When processing the dog's face, use your free hand to secure its mouth so that your pet does not reflexively bite you.

Do not clip a dog whose fur is dirty, damp, or even wet. Firstly, the likelihood of damage to the pet’s skin increases, and secondly, the knife attachments will very quickly become dull and become unusable.

After each grooming session, carefully inspect your animal's skin. If you find cuts, be sure to disinfect the wounds.

When starting to trim your dog’s claws, make sure that you have hemostatic powder or a pencil on hand: even experienced groomers can accidentally touch the live part of the claw along with the keratinized part of the claw.

Intimate hairstyles and pubic shaving

Shaved female pubis

Trimming and shaving the pubic area exists in many cultures. For example, Islam encourages regular removal of pubic hair. Hair removal methods are depilation (when only the visible part of the hair is removed) and epilation (when the hair is removed along with the hair root).

“Fitra is five things: circumcision, shortening the mustache, cutting nails, plucking armpit hair and shaving pubic hair.”

Original text (Ar.) Fataawa al-Lajnah al-Daa'imah 5/127F

Motives for changing the natural appearance of pubic hair may include fashion, religion, tradition, sexual experience such as oral sex, tactile sensations, better appearance, hygiene, discomfort such as sweating from heat or itching, removal of hair that is visible from underwear or swimsuit, your own style.

Styles

Main article: Intimate hairstyle

Changing the appearance of your pubic hair relative to the natural one, as well as leaving it unchanged, speaks primarily about a person’s lifestyle. Designer Mary Quant became famous when her husband gave her an intimate green heart-shaped hairstyle on her pubic area.

Some styles are below:

Natural style: without any hair cutting or additional care.
Regular haircut: hair is cut to length, but not removed or shaved.
Triangle: Hair is removed (usually with wax) from the sides, forming a triangle so that pubic hair is not visible from under the swimsuit. The amount of hair removed can vary significantly, from aligning along the bikini line to removing two to three centimeters on each side of the bikini line. The length of the remaining hair varies from two to eight centimeters.
The most famous intimate hairstyle, the Brazilian style involves removing all pubic hair, but sometimes a thin vertical strip of hair, no more than five millimeters in length, may be left.
Mohawk: Removing hair from the left and right, leaving the remaining hair sticking up.
Mohawk: hairstyle similar to the mohawk style, but without shaving the pubic area.
Dyed hair: Dying pubic hair to match the color of the hair on your head or to give it a unique look.
Cocktail: A short cut of all hair except for a small but long braid (also known as a ponytail).
Others: V-shape, heart shape, arrow shape, initials, fruit shape and so on. These are all variations of the Brazilian style, where the design is formed from pubic hair with a completely shaved vulva for women and a penis and testicles for men.

How to cut a dog's hair at home?

Hair trimming is a necessary hygienic procedure for dogs of long-haired breeds. Any owner can handle a hygienic haircut. If you want to prepare your dog for an exhibition by getting a model haircut, it is better not to risk it and contact a professional grooming salon.

It is necessary to cut your dog's hair as the hair grows back. But you shouldn't do this too often. The optimal interval between haircuts is six months. It is important to accustom your dog to hygiene procedures from a very early age. The ideal time for the first haircut of a long-haired puppy is 3 months. It is better to entrust the first haircut to a professional to avoid mistakes and to form a positive perception of this procedure in the dog.

Grooming and its types

The goals of grooming vary. Some owners prepare their dogs for an exhibition, others want their dog to be known as a “neat guy,” and still others want a creative and extraordinary appearance for their pet. Depending on the intent of the cosmetic procedures, there are several types of grooming:

Hygienic. Includes a hygienic haircut (cutting hair in the groin and under the tail) once every 2 weeks - 1 month. It is advisable to do it before swimming. After trimming, it will be easier for the owner to care for the animal. In this case, a haircut along the body is not expected. This method of cutting hair is suitable for dogs in several situations:

In addition to the “sanitary” haircut, hygienic grooming includes a set of standard procedures: cleaning the ears and removing excess hair from them, cleansing the eyes, teeth, trimming the nails. Much attention is paid to the paws. Excess hair is trimmed between the toes and pads, and the hair on the limbs is shortened in a circular manner.

Grooming and its types

Home grooming has one important feature. Its main goal is to give the dog a neat appearance, make it visually attractive and clean. In this case, it is not necessary to adhere to the breed’s conformation standards. A haircut is done more for the sake of hygiene and convenience, rather than for exhibition “beauty”.

Exhibition. But for this type of grooming, the entire procedure is performed strictly according to established rules. Moreover, when making an exhibition version, the master strives to maximally emphasize the advantages of the exterior, and, of course, tries to make the disadvantages of the four-legged appearance invisible. But all these manipulations are carried out in accordance with the requirements of the breed.

Creative. There are not and cannot be any rules, norms or restrictions. After all, when ordering such a service, the owner wants to give his dog’s exterior the most extravagant look. This is done mainly through original curly haircuts, when intricate patterns are cut on the animal’s fur.

There are other techniques through which groomers manage to turn even an ordinary dog into a work of art: dyeing the fur, adding decorative elements - rhinestones, feathers. Some experts are so keen on the creative option that they create dogs that look like pandas, dragons, dinosaurs and cartoon characters.

Why cut your dog's hair?

Grooming your dog is necessary in order to protect your pet from the appearance of matted hair and the formation of tangles. In addition, too long hair in spring and summer can become a home for blood-sucking insects (fleas or ticks). And in the autumn-winter period, dirt and reagents can accumulate in the wool, which can lead to skin irritation. Long hair prevents the owner from noticing the problem in time - paratises, dermatitis or weeping eczema. A neatly trimmed coat allows not only to notice, but also to carry out more prompt treatment of the disease.

How often should the procedure be performed?

Dachshunds are groomed in the spring and fall; natural shedding occurs at this time . The owner’s task is to help the dog get rid of dead hairs, thin out the undercoat, and comb out the fluff.

IMPORTANT!

Before exhibitions, haircuts are carried out on average 4 weeks in advance.

During this time, the bald spots will heal, the hairs will grow and look natural. It is advisable to comb your dog's hair every week and pluck out long, regrown hairs to maintain its shape.

Defects during trimming are possible, do not be alarmed . This is a long procedure, tiring for the dog, the owner or the master, and mistakes happen.

The places where excess hair was pulled out return to normal after a couple of weeks - the hair grows, lies neatly and covers the bald spots.

Which breeds don't need grooming?

If your pet is short-haired, then it does not need hair trimming. To care for short-haired dog breeds, it is enough to comb them with a special brush and periodically bathe them with a special shampoo. These procedures will help remove dead hair and make the coat healthy and shiny. Grooming is also not recommended for dogs of wire-haired breeds. Trimming is used for them - plucking out dead hairs. Only the mustache and beard characteristic of such breeds need trimming.

Required Tools

Dog fur can be trimmed using a clipper or special scissors. It is not recommended to cut your dog's hair with a human clipper - it is not suitable for dog hair. You will need to purchase a special dog clipper and scissors with rounded ends. You should also prepare a first aid kit in case of a cut. It should contain cotton pads, hydrogen peroxide or chlohexidine, a bandage and a patch.

To groom your dog you will need the following tools:

Dog clipper with different attachments;
Scissors with rounded ends;
Comb or brush;
Colt cutter;
Shampoo and conditioner for bathing.

Preparing for a haircut

Prepare the area for the haircut. The dog needs to be groomed in a standing position. You can place the animal on an elevated position so that it is convenient for you to carry out all the manipulations. To prevent your pet from sliding on the surface, you should place a thick cloth under its paws.
Find yourself a helper. If someone holds the dog, the haircut will be much easier.
Consider how long the fur will be on different parts of the body. To give the pet a cute appearance, as a rule, longer hair is left on the dog's face, neck and withers.
Prepare your dog's coat for clipping. You should not cut dirty and matted hair - this will complicate the procedure and may damage the instrument. Before grooming, be sure to bathe your pet in warm water using shampoo and conditioner. This will make the coat elastic and make it easier to comb. After bathing, the coat should be thoroughly dried and combed.

Behavior rules

If nail trimming is being done for the first time, the animal must be accustomed to it gradually. First, they take him by the paws and just sit for a while, giving him the opportunity to get used to the touches without getting irritated by such actions. When the dog stops reacting to the fact that its paws are in the hands of the owner, take a nail cutter and carefully run it along the claws, also giving time to get used to such manipulations.

While grooming, you should not touch the area around the claws with your hands, as this may cause tickling or other unusual sensations that will cause your pet to struggle. For the same reason, you should not squeeze your paw too hard, preventing the dog from moving it. Feeling violence or threat, any animal will begin to break free, trying to escape.

It is very important not to create any situation in which the pet might think that they are trying to harm him. To do this, all the owner’s movements must be firm and clear, but at the same time soft and unobtrusive. There may be several options for how to properly hold a dog when trimming its nails:

There may be several options for how to properly hold a dog when trimming its nails:

many dog breeders prefer to place the pet on the table to make it convenient to carry out the procedure;
others take it in their arms, pressing it to the body.

But professional groomers recommend using the help of a second person who will hold the dog, preventing it from getting up and running away or from twitching and harming itself.

If the animal breaks out and does not allow manipulation, you can wrap it in a diaper. This will also require another person to hold the dog while the owner releases his paw and trims the nails.

Important! If, despite all the measures to correctly perform the procedure, the pet whines and struggles vigorously, then this indicates its increased sensitivity. In this case, a few minutes before cutting, it is necessary to treat the paws with an anesthetic solution of Lidocaine.

How to properly groom a dog at home?

Cutting a haircut with a clipper is a difficult task that not every owner can handle. If you have never cut your dog's hair, it is better to take it to a grooming salon and watch how a professional groomer does it. There you should also clarify with him all the nuances of cutting your dog, so that you can repeat it at home.

It is worth remembering that using a machine if used incorrectly can destroy the hair structure and lead to problems with the hair. Therefore, when grooming your dog for the first time at home, it is better not to use a clipper. If you have never cut your dog's hair before, it is safer to use special scissors. They have rounded ends, which will prevent injury to the skin during the procedure.

Hair trimming begins from the back, gradually moving lower along the body. You need to cut in the direction of hair growth, parallel to the body, lifting it with a comb or brush. First you should finish processing one side of the body and only then move on to the other. You should be especially careful when trimming the hair on your dog's face. You need to move in the direction away from the eyes. Do not cut the fur on the face too short. It should be slightly longer than the fur on the pet's body.

To avoid mistakes, it is better to first slightly shorten the hair, removing a small amount of it, and then carefully adjust the haircut. The length of the coat should not be less than one centimeter. To trim the fur on the belly, you need to stand the pet on its hind legs, holding its front legs with your hands.

An important element of hygienic care is trimming the hair on the paws. It is very important to pay attention to the hair between your dog's toes. Matted long hair can cause pain and irritation of the skin. Therefore, the hairs between the fingers must be cut off.

Also, special attention should be paid to the genital and anal areas, and the armpits. There the wool can only be cut with scissors and very carefully. The fur in the ears can be trimmed with scissors with rounded ends or plucked using special tweezers, after pre-treating the skin with lotion to prevent irritation.

Text of the book “Grooming for Dogs and Cats”

Small nuances: you can only bathe your dog with slightly warm or cool water. Water at room temperature is ideal. Drying can only be done with a warm, not hot, hairdryer (the normal power of a hairdryer for drying a dog is one and a half kilowatts). If you have a long-haired breed and use curlers, use special curling oil for dogs. If you need to cover up a bald spot or quickly grow fur after shedding or estrus, use a 1:1 mixture of vitamin A in oil and castor oil. If you have a shedding breed and the dog does not show (show dogs need to take care of their fur at all times), then during shedding, bathe the dog and leave it wet to bask in towels - most of the hair will fall out immediately, and will not fall off gradually, driving your vacuum cleaner crazy. But the fur of show dogs should be treated like an ancient archaeological find, ready to crumble at any second. Gently comb every hair, bathe carefully, do not use regular collars (they wipe the hair on the neck in front of the withers), and walk in overalls in bad weather.

Claw care. In dogs that live indoors and move very little, quite often their nails grow excessively and begin to crumble and break. To prevent this from happening, they need to be trimmed periodically. In nature, the length of a dog's claws is regulated naturally - claws that are too long are worn down when moving. When trimming claws, you need to be careful - trimming the claws too short can lead to inflammation of the roots of the claws. It is best to trim the claw with a special device that clamps it from all sides. Ordinary scissors crumble claws, they crack lengthwise, and microorganisms and dirt get into the cracks.

It is necessary to examine the teeth, and carefully remove small, not yet hardened plaque with a cotton wool wrapped on a stick, previously moistened and dipped in tooth powder. And if tartar has already formed, it is removed by a veterinarian, usually under general anesthesia.

The ears should be examined at least once a week, but the owner should not put a finger or a stick into the depths of the ear - only those parts that are visible should be treated. Drops should not be used unless prescribed by a veterinarian. The day before cleaning your ears, you can put one drop of olive or almond oil into each ear - this will soften the accumulated wax.

The eyes usually do not require much attention, except in breeds like the Pekingese, in which they become watery and develop wet streaks on the cheeks. Watery eyes should be washed 1-2 times a day with a cotton swab moistened with human eye wash.

Chapter 3. Dogs

Poodle haircut

Grooming is a very important point in keeping a poodle. Due to its structure, dying fur does not fall out. Therefore, it must be combed regularly. Puppies and dogs under 1–2 years of age have softer and less dense hair than older dogs (full coat is established by 2.5–3.5 years), so it is recommended to brush puppies 2–3 times a week.

Puppies must be accustomed to this procedure gradually and very carefully, otherwise this pleasant pastime can become torture for them, and then weekly fights will only aggravate the dog’s mistrust and refusal to comply with your demands. Therefore, it is better to be patient at first and very carefully, so as not to scare or hurt the puppy, comb the fur (you need to be especially careful when combing the paws and ears, since there are many nerve endings there). While you are training your puppy to use the brush, it is better to brush him more often (1-2 times a day). At 3–4 months, this procedure needs to be approached more seriously and persistently so that the puppy understands what they want from him. It is more convenient for you and for the hairdresser if you teach the dog to comb it on a table in a stand.

When a dog’s “puppy” coat begins to change to “adult” fur, the dog will need to be combed once every 1-2 days and cut (Fig. 3). Otherwise, the wool will fall off and form tangles that cannot be sorted out. The mats are carefully removed by hand and in no case with a mat cutter (if you intend to keep the hair on the dog)! If it is impossible to separate the tangles with your hands, you can cut them lengthwise with scissors and carefully comb them with a card. You can use mink oil (in the form of sprays) or other special formulations.

Rice. 3. Haircut “Puppy”: a) preparation for haircut; b) after a haircut.

Poodles begin to be combed from the tail or from the head. And gradually, strand by strand, from the root of the hair to the very ends, the entire body is combed, then the paws. Particular attention should be paid to the areas behind the ears, around the elbows, on the back of the neck, the inner surface of the “pants” and the lower part of the paws, since this is where the fur most often gets tangled and tangles form.

Before washing, the dog must be combed, since the tangles under the influence of water become denser and cannot be sorted out. In addition, the likelihood that you will be able to rinse such wool well remains in question.

Puppies under 4 months of age should only be washed as a last resort. After washing, the dog is not taken outside for 12 hours, since during washing the temperature balance is disturbed and it is necessary for it to be restored. If you absolutely must do this (assuming the weather is warm), you should dry it well with a hairdryer. It is best to dry your dog with a hairdryer on the table. Make sure the table surface is not slippery. A stream of warm air is directed to a specific place, while combing it against the growth of the fur. Dry the areas with shorter hair first. It is necessary to brush and dry the hair with a hairdryer until it is completely dry, without missing a single centimeter on the dog.

The dog is washed completely once or twice, then the paws and ears are washed again, since they usually get dirty the most. Then the dog is thoroughly washed 2-3 times under a strong stream of water. After this, the wool is squeezed out with your palms 2-3 times, starting from the top. Then the dog is blotted with a towel. Then you can let it run for 5-10 minutes, then dry it with a hairdryer. At the same time, the wool is combed with a card, directing warm air onto it. This way the hair is straightened before cutting. Dry the dog, starting with short hair: first the body, tail, head, then paws.

The preparatory (hygienic) haircut includes: cutting the muzzle (Fig. 4), tips of the paws, belly, genitals and the base of the tail. If you do it after every wash, your pet will always look decent. Grooming is done with an electric clipper with a 1 mm attachment (a smaller blade may scratch the dog's skin). You can also cut with a mechanical clipper or scissors, but this requires a lot of skill.

Rice. 4. Poodle face cutting options

The muzzle is cut in the form of a triangle. The line runs from one inner corner of the eye to the other, from the outer corner of the eye to the ear, from the ear down to the sternum, from the sternum up to the other ear and from the ear to the outer corner of the eye. The location of the lower point of the triangle on the sternum depends on the length of the neck. If the dog has a short neck, then we visually lengthen it by placing the lower point on the chest bone. If the neck length is good, lower the triangle 2–3 cm above the chest bone.

The fur is completely cut off from the tips of the paws. In front, from the claws to the end of the clefts between the toes + 1 cm. In the back, the paw is cut 1 cm upward from the heel. The hair below between the toes is shaved with a narrow nozzle or scissors with rounded ends.

Nails are trimmed once a week by approximately 2–3 mm. But you need to be careful not to touch the living part. Do not use scissors or manicure accessories. Their knives are not designed for the shape and thickness of the claw. They only cause pain to the dog. If you injured your claw and started bleeding, you can cauterize the claw with dry crystals of potassium permanganate. Special powders to stop bleeding are now widely used.

The base of the tail is cut in the area of the anus in the shape of a triangle, smoothly moving to the croup. The length of the trimmed distance around the tail depends on the length of the tail. The shorter the ponytail, the shorter the length from base to pompom is cut. If a dog's tail is docked too short or the dog is overly stretched, then the base of the tail is trimmed, going over the back.

Sparse and plump hair grows on the belly, so shave the belly carefully without scratching the skin. The fur is shaved from the genitals to the navel, slightly extending to the inner surface of the thigh. In male dogs, the fur from the testicles is shaved. Some male dog owners leave hair on the outside of the testicles, others leave short hair everywhere to avoid irritation.

Haircut "Lion"

So, let's start with the most common Leo haircut (Fig. 5). First, the paws of the front and hind limbs must be carefully trimmed with scissors and a clipper. Wool is removed both from the surface of the fingers and between them. The pasterns and metatarsals should also be trimmed short to the carpal and, accordingly, hock joints. Secondly, you need to cut the hair short with a clipper to the elbow. In another case, you can leave it in a protruding state, only trimming it with scissors to the same length in order to obtain an elegant line and columnar shape of the legs. This part on the front (if the upper part is cut short) and on the hind legs forms cuffs that encircle the carpal and hock joints. The wool should be trimmed with scissors, giving the shape of full cylinders. Trim the legs, thighs, croup and part of the body up to the last rib smoothly, evenly and short with a clipper. Trim the tail with a clipper to about one-third of its base. Leave the tip of the tail uncut and trim it using scissors so that you get a neat spherical or cylindrical pom-pom. Leave the entire front part of the body, right down to the belly, without a haircut and only trim it with scissors (trim the protruding hair) so that it has a beautiful shape. The lower jaw up to the throat and the back of the nose up to the transition from the forehead to the muzzle should be cut short with a clipper. Trim the cheekbones short with a clipper and scissors to the inside of the ear (the ears in this case are well adjacent to the head). Trim uneven fur around the eyes. Leave a mustache on your upper lips. Remove the ends of the protruding hair from the ears, giving them an elegant shape. The ears should be in harmony with the head, forming one whole.

Rice. 5. Leo haircut

Haircut "Modern"

There is a more modern style of poodle haircut - “Modern” (Fig. 6, 7). The muzzle and front of the neck are cut against the direction of hair growth, as with a classic haircut. Also cut the base of the ponytail short, down to the pompom. The body from the withers - the back, croup, sides and belly - is cut with a clipper in the direction of hair growth so that the hair remains no shorter than 1 cm. The hair on the paws and between the toes is cut with a clipper with a small head or scissors. In this case, the claws should be clearly visible. Long wool – “pants” – should be straightened with scissors so that the shapes prescribed by the standard are obtained. If a beard is left on the lower jaw, it is straightened using a machine.

Rice. 6. Haircut "Modern"

There are other styles of poodle haircuts. In some countries (for example, in Germany), two options for the design of a poodle's muzzle are accepted and equally allowed at exhibitions: completely clipped or with a small mustache. It is also allowed to leave not only a mustache, but also a beard. Using a machine, they should be given a neat shape. The tail is usually cut completely. But you can leave a neat pom-pom at its end. The paws are shaped in the same way as with a classic haircut. The hair at the base of the ears should be shortened, but not completely cut off. The transition from long hair on the legs and head to short-cropped parts should be gradual and moderately pronounced.

Rice. 7. New haircut style “Modern”

Haircut "English Lion"

In the “English Lion” hairstyle (Fig. the rounded edge of the long hair of the mane is separated from the shortened and leveled hair on the croup by a narrow belt of very short, no more than 1 cm, hair going around the waist. It is cut with scissors or a machine. The hair on the hind legs is straightened to 2.5–4 cm in length (depending on the height of the poodle); so that narrow “pants” are obtained. Two parallel strips 1–2 cm wide are cut into them at the knee joint and just above the hock. It is advisable to make them using a machine with a narrow head. The entire muzzle from the bridge of the nose and cheekbones to the nose, as well as the front part of the neck to the arytenoid cartilage is clipped against the direction of hair growth. The base of the tail is also clipped to the pompom. The forelimbs are clipped from the cuffs to the elbow joints. The hair of the mane, hanging down, covers the cropped elbow.

The paws of both the front and hind limbs are cleanly clipped with a clipper. The cuffs on the front and hind legs are trimmed. Their lower edge is rounded so that the fingers are visible. The pompom on the tail, in its shape and length, should correspond to the general proportions of the hairstyle.

Rice. 8 Haircut "English Lion"

Haircut "English saddle"

The “English Saddle” hairstyle (Fig. 9) differs from the “English Lion” hairstyle in that the poodle’s sides are cut short with a semicircle with a clipper, and a narrow strip of hair 2.5–4 cm long remains along the spine. It is connected to the hair of the same length left on the croup and hind legs.

Rice. 9. English saddle haircut

All poodle hairstyles developed by the British, approved for exhibitions, have one common feature in the design of the hair on the head. All long hair on the head is lifted forward and upward with a brush. Then the one that grows on the front half of the skull (from the bridge of the nose to the line connecting the beginning of the ears) is separated and tightened with a special elastic band. The hair is also collected on the back half of the skull (from the line connecting the beginning of the ears to the back of the head). Both tufts are then tied with a common elastic band or pinned with a hairpin. The wool under the clip is fluffed with a brush. The ends of the hair are trimmed. This achieves a smooth transition to the fur of the mane. The wool on the front half of the skull, before being collected under the elastic, is smoothed in front (above the eyes) with a comb, and then tucked under the elastic so that the front has a nice, even upward rise. You can collect all the hair on your head at once under one elastic band.

Haircut "Continental"

In the “Continental” hairstyle (Fig. 10), the head, body, forelimbs, paws of the front and hind limbs are cut in the same way as in the “English Lion” hairstyle. The waist, croup and hind legs are trimmed very short with a clipper. Leave cuffs below the hocks and two pompoms aligned with hairdressing scissors on the backs.

Rice. 10. Haircut "Continental"

Haircut "Astrakhan"

The “Karakul” hairstyle (Fig. 11) is very similar to the “Modern” hairstyle. The difference is that a pompom is not formed on the tail, and the hair on the toes, shortened only with scissors, does not open them sharply: the “pants” end at the very claws. The “hat” on the head has the shape of a cap (narrowed on the sides), and the ear cartilage is completely trimmed. A small mustache is left on the upper jaw, and a noticeable beard is left on the lower jaw (its lower edge should be leveled). At some shows this hairstyle is not considered standard and is not allowed.

Rice. 11. Haircut “Astrakhan”

Haircut "Royal Dutch"

In many countries, especially in the USA, the “Royal Dutch” hairstyle is popular (Fig. 12). When performing it, the muzzle, cheekbones, neck, tail one third from the base and (which is very important) a strip along the spine to the base of the tail are cut short with a clipper. The “cap” is made in a round shape, but without a conical descent along the neck, since the entire neck is cut short (as well as the back). The long hair on the limbs is only slightly shortened when straightened. At the same time, everywhere they make a sharp, emphasized transition from short to long hair. Therefore, “buffs” are obtained on the shoulder blades and hips. A round pompom is made on the tail and the toes are cut short. You can leave a small beard, neatly trimmed with scissors.

Rice. 12. “Royal Dutch” haircut

Haircut "Sheep"

In addition, there is also the “Sheep” hairstyle (Fig. 13), which is very popular, probably due to its ease of execution. The muzzle, cheekbones and cheeks (i.e., the entire muzzle to the ears), the front of the neck and the base of the tail are trimmed with a machine. A moderate-sized pompom is made on the tail. The body, limbs and neck are trimmed equally, no shorter than 2.5 cm (longer is possible). The fur on the “cap” is left longer than on the body, but the difference should not be very noticeable. Fingers are cut short.

Rice. 13. Haircut “Sheep”

Grooming and trimming of terriers

So, let's start with the fact that you are the owner of a Wirehaired Terrier. What do you need to care for the fur of your four-legged friend? First of all, you need to acquire the necessary tool - a brush for a terrier. It looks like a massage brush, only without a handle. The brush has a rubber base with straight metal teeth. You also need a special knife to remove hair. There is one main requirement here - the trimming knife should not be sharp, that is, it should not cut the wool, and the shape of the teeth and their length can be completely different. Usually 2-3 trimmings are sufficient for hygienic care, although the number and type of trimming knives are selected for each job and each dog separately. Cutting trimming is not worth buying, it will only spoil the structure and quality of the coat.

You will also need:

1) two types of combs - with rare and frequent teeth;

2) a nail clipper for trimming claws;

3) straight and thinning scissors (for processing the bottom of the paws);

4) scaler - a special hook for removing tartar;

5) a hair dryer is necessary for drying and styling wool;

6) a trimming table with a non-slip surface and a special tripod for fixing the dog. The height of the table should allow you to groom the dog without bending over.

Well, having sorted out the tools, let’s talk about our pets. You need to accustom your dog to grooming from a very early age. Place the puppy on the table for 1-2 minutes to begin with, rewarding him with a treat. This is necessary to teach the puppy to stand calmly on the table and not be afraid of heights. The dog should not be afraid on the table. A good coat treatment can only be done on a calmly standing dog. And do not forget that at the exhibition, as a rule, the expert examines the dog on the table - it must stand calmly, in an impressive stance. If you have achieved peace of mind, then you can safely proceed to further actions, namely, start combing first with a brush with light massaging movements, then with a sparse comb, starting from the head, then to the body and paws. When your pet is finally brushed, be sure to praise him and give him a treat before removing him from the table. Try to ensure that the grooming process takes you no more than 5–10 minutes. If you perform the procedure 2-3 times a week, your pet will look forward to it.

The condition of the terrier's coat largely depends on the regularity of washing and the shampoo used. Take the advice, do not buy cheap pet shampoos and, most importantly, do not use untested shampoo before the exhibition. The undoubted advantages of expensive shampoos include not only their quality, but also the fact that they are usually produced in concentrated form. This means that you will wash your dog with a bottle of good shampoo for a very long time, while cheap shampoo will run out after 2-3 uses. On the issue of quality: currently there are dozens of companies producing dog cosmetics, there are special tinted shampoos that make the dog’s color more intense, tinted foams for hair styling, and special shampoos for wire-haired dogs. Most manufacturing companies produce so-called tear-free shampoos. As a rule, each owner independently finds the optimal cosmetics for a particular dog by trial and error. However, dog cosmetics cannot be classified as cheap, so mistakes can be expensive. Do not use conditioners, especially before the show, as they fluff up the coat, but can be extremely useful for combing out tangles. Tinted shampoos do make the coat brighter and shinier, but make sure that such shampoo does not contain oils that soften the coat, which, by the way, is often found. Before the exhibition, try to use proven cosmetics that are guaranteed not to give you any unpleasant surprises. When washing your dog, make sure that water does not get into the ears; to do this, you can cover the ear canals with pieces of cotton wool. The water temperature should be approximately 36 °C. After washing, dry the coat thoroughly with a clean cloth or terry towel. If you plan to show your dog, be sure to accustom him to the hair dryer from childhood. The most convenient way to dry a dog is on a table. Your task is not just to dry, but also to style the wool. To do this, start drying from the head. Direct the flow of warm air along the growth of the fur; when drying the beard and eyebrows, comb them forward to give the head a correct and beautiful elongated shape. Dry the hair on the dog's neck, withers, back and rump thoroughly. To do this, when styling, comb the fur against its growth, drying the roots, then again along the growth, try to lay it so that the fur does not stick out on end, but fits snugly to the body. Be sure to dry the wool dry - wool that is wet at the roots easily wrinkles, so there will be no trace left of long-term styling. It is difficult to determine exactly the required washing frequency. As a rule, it depends on the specific dog and the season.

Hair plucking begins from a very early age: at 2 months, at 3.5 months and after changing teeth. If the dog is not exhibited, then 3-4 hygienic trimmings per year are enough to maintain a decent appearance. Well, if you decide to attend exhibitions, you have a completely different job ahead of you. Trips to burrows are stopped; there, the decorating hair sometimes stretches down to the skin and it takes time to achieve the optimal thickness of the coat. Preparing wool for an exhibition must begin at least 2.5 months in advance, and decorating hair (paws, mustaches, beards) even earlier - 6 months in advance. It is decided individually how long to pluck the dog’s body, head, and neck. The rate of hair growth at different times of the year is different, and in bitches, if you start working with them during estrus or false pregnancy, the wool generally grows very slowly and, as a rule, is not of the best quality - soft and colorless, with a large amount of undercoat. Weekly pinching allows new hair to grow in time, thus, the dog grows hair of different periods of growth and, accordingly, of different lengths. If the dog is preparing not for one exhibition, but for the exhibition season, then work with wool is carried out weekly.

Nails should also be trimmed from a very early age. Take the paw under your fingers and “bite” the part of the claw that curves like a fishhook. If the claws are light, then the cut border is clearly visible: you need to cut off the transparent part. If you cut more than expected, slightly damaging the sensitive growth area, under which a drop of blood appears, apply a cotton wool with potassium permanganate crystals to this place. Claws need to be trimmed as they grow, usually once every 7-14 days.

The fur does not grow constantly, but when it reaches a certain length, it dies, but does not fall off, as in most dogs during shedding, but is retained on the body. Plucking can help your dog get rid of dead hair. Unlike other types of coat, the Wirehaired Terrier's coat can be removed at any stage of growth, but it is easiest to pluck when it is mature, i.e., long and raised above the skin. The coat of the Wirehaired Terrier consists of a soft, dense undercoat and a wiry outer coat. The diameter of the guard hair changes throughout: it is thinner and softer at the root, coarser and harder in the central part. If a wirehaired terrier is cut, the guard hair, cut in a thin part, will grow back colorless and soft. The thin part of the hair is usually lighter. With regular haircuts, the structure and color of the coat will change, not for the better. To restore such wool, regular plucking will be required for a long time (in some cases up to 1 year). The use of cutting tools (machine, scissors, sharp trimmers) on wire-haired terriers is not allowed.

After reading the above, you are not ready to trim yet. First you need to learn how to use brushes and a comb. Take a comb (stiff and with sharp bristles) and start brushing your dog. Remember that this brush is very stiff and has sharp bristles, so be careful not to scratch your dog's skin. This is the only time you brush your dog's coat in the opposite direction to the direction the coat grows. Our goal in this case is not to properly comb and style the dog's coat, but to prepare the coat for the upcoming trimming. But first we comb the coat in the right direction. We brush over one area several times, preferring to repeat this operation several times rather than use force when combing. If we comb a fairly overgrown dog whose fur is full of undercoat, then soon the brush will be full of combed hair. So, you have not only combed your pet’s hair, but also cleaned its fur. Then quickly go over the body with the brush again and comb the decorative hair on the paws last (since this is the most difficult part of this operation), but now in the opposite direction. In this case, your movements should be upward. This helps remove any remaining tangles and prevents the bristles of the brush from coming into contact with your dog's skin. Brush individual tangles in different directions. You'll be surprised how great this comb gets rid of them. Always hold the brush loosely in your hand and do not tug at loose fur with the brush. After you have combed your dog with a brush, separating the matted hair, you can pick up a comb. Comb the fur with the thin part of the comb, holding the comb loosely and without pressing. Unlike the position of the trimming knife, you should hold the comb at an angle roughly (roughly) parallel to the dog's body. This will protect your dog's skin from cuts and scratches. Because you hold the comb loosely, it will twist in your hands when it encounters tangled hair. Therefore, do not try not to drop the comb, and with enough practice your hand will know what to do. Whenever you encounter a tangle, simply change the angle of the comb. Run the comb over this area several times, starting from the ends of the hair, gradually working your way to the base. After you have untangled a piece of matted fur, run the comb over the area, holding it at a normal angle. If the comb does not go through this place again, it means that you simply did not completely untangle the tangle and must do it again, working only with a few front teeth of the comb, and not with the entire comb. After this, you can move on to decorating the hair on the paws. The decorative fur takes a very long time to grow. When we start working with a puppy, it takes about a couple of years for him to grow excellent hair on his paws, i.e. by the end of this period he will actually be an adult dog. Much depends on the structure of the fur on the paws. The softer the fur on the paws, the easier it mats. The coarser the hair, the longer it takes for the fur on the paws to reach the required length and density. But the less tangles form on it. The hair on the paws should be softer than on the rest of the body. The general rule is also that the fur on the paws has a different, less coarse structure. The facial hair, beard, and voluminous hair on the paws are what distinguish the Wire Fox Terrier. If not for these differences, he would be very much like his smooth-haired brother. Nowadays, the presence of a large or small amount of decorative hair for a Wire Fox Terrier means doom or bust at shows. To perform proper trimming, you need to have a lot of this hair. Keep in mind that if you remove an excess amount of this hair somewhere, then you will have nowhere to take it. Therefore, special care must be taken when working with it. Accordingly, hair loss should be avoided when combing the fur on the paws. Combing the fur on the paws should be done in the same order as the hair on the dog's body, i.e. first use a stiff brush. But here you need to comb more carefully both up and down. And let's hope you never let the hair on your paws get matted. And if this is the case, then you will not show dogs in the ring until you bring the coat in this area back to normal. Sometimes, with very tangled mats that cannot be combed, you have to cut them off. But please note: in this case we do not cut off all the hair, but only the tangled ends of the hair. When combing, hold the brush loosely in your hand. After you've brushed out a few tangles, take a look at the brush. If there is a lot of hair left on it, then this means that you are holding the brush too tightly. Relax your hand and try again, being careful not to let the wire bristles make contact or scratch your dog's skin. If the skin on the paws is scratched (irritated) after combing, the dog will lick or even chew this place and the efforts to comb out the tangles will be wasted. Use the front part of a brush with a small amount of bristles to detangle matted fur. Your goal is to have the coat in such a condition that it allows the comb to pass through the coat without pulling out a single hair. At the same time, volume and fluffiness of the wool is achieved without “holes” in it. Once the coat is brushed, gently run the brush upward through the coat to fluff it up. Now take a comb and, using light downward strokes, shape the coat of the front paw the way it should look in the ring. Now you can see how the fur lies on the paw, what needs to be removed and where, and where it needs to be added and how much. The hind legs are made in the same way, except that the front legs should be like vertical columns, and the hind legs should be curved and have kinks. Some Wire Fox Terriers have a single-layer coat. This does not mean that they do not have an undercoat. It takes approximately 6 to 8 weeks after the old coat is trimmed, and the dog “dresses” with the new coat. This means that with this trimming there are periods of time during which the dog cannot be exhibited. However, most Wire Foxes can be given a double or even triple coat coat with a little effort. Two-layer or three-layer wool is called multi-layer wool. Its advantages are obvious. Your dog will never be "out of coat" and can therefore be brought into the show ring any time you wish if you take the time to maintain the coat in proper order. If you don't have the time and patience to work, work, and work, then you certainly shouldn't try to maintain a layered coat. Once involved in this process, you must work methodically. To obtain a multi-layer coat, we first remove all the hair from the dog, as opposed to the step-by-step method. Ideally, this should be done in one go, although usually due to the abundance of hair and other factors it is often not possible to do this in one go. However, when you begin work, you should at least completely work on the area you are starting to work on. If you started with the head, then before finishing you must do the entire head on all sides, or both shoulders, or both sides of the torso, or the entire back, etc. Otherwise, you will end up with a growing spine on one side and a clean skin on the other. As a result, the dog will look asymmetrical and, you see, absolutely ugly: and all your work will go down the drain. The first rule: if you take something off, then you must leave something. This applies, of course, to wool. During initial trimming, all guard hair should be removed. Then you may discover that your dog has very short hair, almost a “second undercoat.” This is where you need to leave it. Full trimming down to a dog's bare skin has a strange psychological effect on it. The dog may appear to cower, tuck its tail, look for a place to hide, and generally act as if it is very disciplined. She may even refuse to eat. In general, she behaves the same way you would if you accidentally found yourself naked in the middle of a big city. If we can leave just a little hair on the dog, he will feel much better.

Useful tips for the owner

If the dog does not give in, growls and snaps, you need to postpone the procedure for several days, during which you gradually accustom the dog to manipulating the fur, imitating a haircut and giving treats for good behavior. This way the dog will be more relaxed about the haircut.

Many owners plan to groom their dog in the summer to keep the pet cool. However, it should be remembered that a thick undercoat protects the dog’s body from overheating and sunburn. Therefore, you should not cut the fur too short.

Remember, only a professional groomer can give you a beautiful haircut. If you are preparing your dog for an exhibition, it is better to contact a specialized grooming salon. Dog grooming products from Royal Groom will help make it easier to hygienically groom your dog at home.

Original article. Read more about dog coat care on our blog.

Why does onychomycosis appear?

Fungi live in warm and humid places, and wherever such conditions exist, it is easy to become infected with them.
For example, if you walk barefoot in public baths, swimming pools, showers or gym locker rooms, your chances of becoming infected are high. Some diseases contribute to the development of onychomycosis:

Diabetes. In patients with diabetes, the fungus is 3 times more common. Excess glucose in the blood creates favorable conditions for fungi to function. In the absence of sugar control and keeping it within normal limits, blood vessels suffer. The longer the illness, the more impaired the blood supply to the legs (diabetic foot syndrome). Wounds heal worse, infection occurs more easily;
Poor blood circulation in the lower extremities caused by varicose veins, atherosclerosis (narrowing of the lumen, blockage of the arteries), thrombophlebitis (formation of blood clots in the lumen of the veins);
Weakened immunity, immunodeficiency states (HIV), damage to the immune system. Reduce the body's resistance to any infections;
Psoriasis. 90% of people suffering from psoriasis experience changes in the nail plate. Grooves form on it, cloudiness is present, depressions appear, and detachment of the nail plate appears. These factors increase the chances of infection with a fungus by 1.5 - 2 times;
Hyperhidrosis, or excessive sweating of the feet, often causes onychomycosis in men;
The presence of a focus of fungal infection in other parts of the body.

The risk group includes older people.

The cause of onychomycosis is often associated with the characteristics of the profession and improper care of the feet:

poor care of feet and nails, lack of daily hygiene procedures due to neglect of personal hygiene rules or difficulties in their implementation (in bedridden patients or patients with limited mobility);
work in damp, damp areas (greenhouses, greenhouses, vegetable stores), frequent wearing of rubber gloves or rubber shoes;
professional sports;
wearing uncomfortable, tight, narrow shoes or shoes made of artificial materials (leatherette), which creates a “greenhouse effect” and interferes with normal air exchange.

Predisposing factors for the development of onychomycosis include trauma to the nail or surrounding tissues, taking antibacterial or hormonal drugs.

In women, a common cause of fungus is prolonged wearing of gel polish. It creates a closed space between the nail plate and the coating, in which a fungal infection successfully develops. It is not recommended to apply gel polish to toenails; it is better to use regular decorative polish. Also, in women, onychomycosis appears after an unsuccessful manicure or pedicure in salons where high-quality disinfection of instruments is not carried out and sterility is not maintained.

How to cut a dog's hair at home

Many breeds, such as the Yorkshire Terrier, Spaniel, Pekingese, Maltese, Bichon Frize, Poodle (and other dogs without undercoat) require careful grooming and regular haircuts. This does not mean that you need to resort to expensive groomer services. The owner can easily do this himself. We'll tell you how to cut your dog's hair at home, what equipment you'll need, and how to make the procedure completely safe.

Possible errors and complications

Errors and complications during the dog nail trimming procedure are not that rare. They are often associated with the behavioral characteristics of animals and with the individual characteristics of the color and anatomical structure of the claws

In this context, it is important to consider a number of aspects

If your animal's nails are dark in color (black claws), which makes nail trimming difficult, you should consult a veterinarian. But it is better to visit him and watch his work, as an example for future independent work.
If the dog twitches sharply and does not allow the procedure to be carried out, then it should be wrapped in a diaper (for small animals). Two people are involved in the procedure - one fixes the dog in his lap, the other frees the paw and begins the haircut.
If the pet is struggling and whining, but the nail bed is clearly not affected, then the dog most likely has a high level of sensitivity. You can purchase a solution of lidocaine, which you can use to treat your dog’s paw a few minutes before trimming the nails.
It is useful to record the dates of haircuts in a special dog care calendar. This will simplify the process of monitoring procedures.
If the existing tool is not able to cope with the thickness of the claw, then you should try to remove the claw with a nail file.

Open wounds in dogs resulting from procedures should be carefully avoided. If one does appear and begins to bleed, you cannot allow the pet to hide in a dark corner and self-medicate, licking its wound. The supplies necessary to provide medical care must be prepared in advance and be on hand. This could be a special hemostatic powder, corn starch or just a bar of soap, hydrogen peroxide, chlorhexidine to disinfect the wound, bandages or napkins.

If the injury is minor, then it is simply disinfected with peroxide or chlorhexidine. Often a special hemostatic pencil is used, which is pressed against the damaged area of the claw for a few seconds. The pencil promotes the formation of a dense clot that prevents bleeding. During first aid, it would be a good idea to offer your pet some kind of treat to distract her and prevent negative emotions from becoming attached to the nail trimming procedure.

Improper or careless care of your pet's claws leads to a number of consequences, often extremely unpleasant.

The claw grows in. For example, an untreated “fifth toe” bends and grows into the dog’s paw pad, causing it severe pain. Such a claw, breaking the skin, allows infectious bacteria to enter the wound and the development of fungi. When experiencing pain, the animal cannot stand on its paw.
The claw bed (felon) becomes inflamed. This disease is caused by injuries to the fingers, claws or adjacent tissues. A purulent swelling occurs at the site of inflammation. The animal's body temperature rises and its appetite decreases. Unpleasant odors emanate from the injured paw, and the wound begins to fester intensely.
The claws break off, causing very painful conditions. This occurs when the claw is too long, which, with sudden movements, clinging to the surface, can come off and disrupt the integrity of the blood vessel. This usually results in severe bleeding.

In some cases, dog owners can treat emerging painful conditions on their own. So, with early inflammation of the claw bed, regular antiseptic treatment of wounds with a chlorhexidine solution is sufficient. In this case, it is useful to apply wound-healing dressings, which need to be changed periodically and monitored for their safety. You can use a special veterinary cap until the wound heals.

When caring for an animal, you should always remember that untimely or careless trimming of animal claws is fraught with consequences such as:

disorders in the development of joints;
negative and irreversible changes in paw position;
deformation in gait and, as a result, in the pet’s spine;
constant pain;
long-term illnesses.

Sometimes, in order to save the life of a pet, it is necessary to undergo declawing operations. Such indications include the following:

ingrown claws – complicated cases;
improper development of the claw, fused claws;
the occurrence of gangrene and other serious consequences;
serious injuries and inflammation, frostbite and burns;
oncological processes.

They also remove the so-called wolf claw (“dewclaw”) – rudimentary claws. Operations comply with breed standards. In developed countries, the operation is condemned by human rights activists.

To learn how to trim a dog's nails at home, watch the following video.

Getting ready for a haircut

In order for the procedure to be safe, successful, and the result to meet your expectations, you need to follow simple rules.

The most important thing is to teach your pet to calmly endure all manipulations. This needs to start from an early age. You should comb, wash and dry your baby carefully, without causing him discomfort or pain, and be sure to reward him with a treat after the procedure. You can read more about this in the article “Caring for Dog Coat.” So that you can safely use the machine at home, the dog should not be afraid of it. During the game, you can turn on the instrument so that your pet “gets acquainted” with the buzzing object. After several times the animal will stop paying attention to it, and you will be able to use the device for its intended purpose.

Preparation

Before the procedure, take your baby for a walk and feed him so that he can stand quietly for a while and allow the manipulations to be carried out. In advance, just before the haircut, comb your pet well, wash it with a special shampoo with emollients (balm, conditioner), dry it with a hairdryer or let it dry naturally and comb it thoroughly. You cannot cut a shaggy or wet dog - the result may be unpleasantly surprising.

Place and tool

To cut your dog's hair at home, you need to select and prepare a place. It is more convenient to do this on a high, flat surface, such as a table. Workplace lighting plays an important role. You must be able to see clearly what you are doing. Provide access to the table from all sides so that the pet can stand quietly in one place and you can walk around it. Cover the table with a thin rubber or silicone mat that your dog's paws won't slip on.

Prepare a comb - an ordinary thin single-row, preferably metal, and brushes that you use in everyday care. Scissors must be professional, hairdressing, well sharpened. A regular hair clipper won't work either. This should be a special grooming tool. No need to purchase an expensive professional model. A simple animal clipper or scissors will be enough.

What are the distinctive features of Siberian cats?

The Siberian is an officially recognized indigenous breed of semi-longhair (SLH) cat.

Each cat breed has a certain standard, and it may differ slightly depending on the system. Each breed is unique, no two breeds are the same! For an amateur, the difference may be little noticeable, but for a felinologist these differences, sometimes not significant, are immediately visible.

A little about the Siberian breed standard: The Siberian Semi-Longhair is a strong, muscular cat, with strong bones, of medium to large size. The coat is of medium length with dense top coat. Eye color is allowed yellow, green, odd-eyed for Vans and whites, blue for whites and colors (Neva Masquerade is a Siberian color). Various colors are allowed, except for chocolate, lilac and several others.

All LDS breeds have hair between their toes, as well as DSh. Ear tassels and brushes are desirable, but their absence is not a disadvantage or a disqualifying defect! Those. they may not exist!

And they wrote nonsense about allergies here. The Siberian, just like any other breed of cat (Rex, Sphynx), is not hypoallergenic! Allergies are a very individual thing!

The picture shows 3 LHD breeds: Maine Coon, Norwegian Forest, Siberian Semi-longhair and their differences in the standard.

A few more photos of Siberian cats and cats:

How to properly cut a dog's hair

For professional grooming and for doing your own haircut at home, there are conditions that must be met.

“All cuts are made in the direction of hair growth, the tool is held strictly parallel to the surface being treated to avoid injury. The only exception is trimming poodles' paws."

Hygienic haircut

This type of haircut includes treatment of the area around the eyes, muzzle (beard, mustache), ears, groin, armpits, area around the anus, genitals and paws. Large areas – the belly and butt – are easiest to cut using a clipper with a 4-5 mm nozzle. If you use scissors, hold them with the ends down and make short, even vertical cuts. Folds in the skin should be stretched and cut at a sufficient distance from the skin to avoid injury. For long-haired pets, a hygienic haircut is done in such a way that the long outer hair hides the cut areas.

Using small, well-sharpened scissors, carefully trim excess hair around the eyes and remove all hair from the ears. If necessary, you can also shorten the coat on the outside. If you use a clipper, smoothly draw a line from the eyes to the nose, holding the dog tightly by the mouth, but at the same time try to speak gently to him to calm him down. The paws should be combed well and everything that protrudes beyond the pads should be cut off, and the hair between the toes should also be trimmed. But don't try to cut too deep - you could injure your dog.

Hair straightening and shortening

Many dog breeds need to regularly trim their beard and long hair on the sides - this can be done at home with scissors. Try to make cuts in one precise motion, holding the scissors parallel to your body. If it doesn’t work, carefully move from left to right, trying to keep a straight line and without lifting your hands.

The fur on the paws is cut with oblique cuts, holding the scissors vertically, ends down, giving it the desired length and shape. After this, you need to comb the dog and cut off any stray hairs.

Using a machine, using 3-5 mm nozzles, you can remove excess hair from the back and sides. You should move in the direction from the head (base of the neck) to the tail, and on the sides - from top to bottom. Fur on the belly should be removed with extreme caution so as not to injure the nipples and delicate skin in this area. If this is your first experience with a machine, you can carefully trim the hair in the area of the nipples with scissors and then smoothly align the transition line with the machine.

Haircut without problems: techniques and secrets

Dogs that react nervously to the word “haircut” and timidly tuck their tails at the sight of scissors are not uncommon.
Unfortunately. And the animal’s dislike for this painless and, in general, pleasant procedure is the owner’s fault. The dog must be accustomed to grooming, combing, and other hygienic procedures from puppyhood, as well as to a leash and collar. To do this, when the puppy is playing, gently stroke his fur with a comb. Repeat this action. A comb should not evoke fear, but only positive emotions.

Important: you need to start accustoming your puppy to grooming from 3 months.

All procedures should be enjoyable and evoke positive emotions for both participants in the process. And then the dog will get used to standing calmly when it is combed, cut, and washed. And he won’t make frightened eyes at the sound of a hair dryer and hair clipper being turned on.

Experts advise

Grooming a walking dog, in a good mood.
Groom your dog dry and clean. Wet wool quickly makes scissors dull.
Grooming a combed dog. This will make the cutting process easier and allow you to do it smoothly and accurately.
Groom your dog on a table that you can move around freely.
It is better not to turn the dog around while grooming unless absolutely necessary. This is additional stress for her.
If there is a large amount of work, divide it into several stages so as not to overtire the dog and not cause him negative emotions from the grooming process.
No aggression from the owner or sudden movements.
Start cutting from the ears, paws, and muzzle. The torso is cut last - the scissors (clipper) are guided along the hair growth, parallel to the torso.
It is more convenient to cut the neck, body, belly and groin with a clipper.
The paw pads, muzzle and base of the tail are trimmed only with scissors.
When cutting the muzzle, the scissors go in the direction “away from the eyes”.
Particular care when cutting requires delicate places - the groin, armpits, base of the tail.
The first haircut with a clipper should not be “zero” - very short, until your hand is “full”, so as not to injure the animal.
During the procedure, praise the dog, stroke it, and talk to it. There are known cases when pets immediately stopped trembling on the table as soon as they began to be showered with compliments.

Useful tips

You shouldn’t cut your dog’s hair too short, as the fur serves not only an aesthetic function, but also a protective one. Without the required length of hair, the animal may freeze or overheat. Insufficiently protected skin is susceptible to injury, parasite bites, scratching, and inflammation.

If you doubt your abilities or your pet is a show-class dog taking part in exhibitions, attend several master classes where they will tell you and clearly show you how to cut a dog’s hair at home. Thus, by avoiding unnecessary stress for the animal, you can save considerable amounts on show grooming. Regular grooming and a good haircut will help maintain a beautiful, healthy coat and excellent appearance for your pet.

Sources:

https://lapkins.ru/p/kak-podstrich-sobaku/ https://zen.yandex.ru/media/id/59b287084bf1614302280b8d/5a8a5a7479885ec6451446b9 https://lovely-dog.ru/uhod-za-pitomtsem/kak -podstrich-sobaku-v-domashnih-usloviyah/

Tools and hygiene products for trimming dog nails

The question arises, how often should you trim your dog’s nails? Your dog's nails should be trimmed as needed. When trimming dogs' nails at home, specialized nail clippers are most often used, of which there are two options:

a tool represented by a sickle-shaped blade;
guillotine type tool.

You can pick up dog nail scissors at any pet store.

The first type of scissors for trimming dog nails is represented by tweezers with a pair of curved blades, and is intended for carrying out the procedure on large breeds.

A high-quality sickle-shaped nail clipper has a limiter that regulates the opening width of the working blades.

But the guillotine nail clipper scissors are represented by a special ring and a pair of blades, so they are optimal for working with breeds that have thin and not too dense claws.

Important! And how to trim a dog’s nails at home - never try to do it with ordinary scissors, they are not suitable for such a procedure. The best tool is made of stainless steel with metal handles, which have rubberized anti-slip pads.

The best tools have proven themselves to be stainless steel with metal handles with rubberized anti-slip pads.

The blade coating can be chrome plated or untreated. The second option does not have protection against rust formation.

Important! The accessory must optimally match the size of the pet (for small or decorative, medium and large breeds), but you can also use a universal tool that is suitable for dogs regardless of age and breed

How to trim a dog's nails correctly, modern electric scratching posts are being used more and more recently.

Electric scratching posts operate on batteries or mains power.

An attachment in the form of a grinding stone is installed on the top of such a tool.

The stone allows you to grind the claw down to the optimal length and shape.

However, in addition to convenience, one must take into account the rather high cost of such an accessory, as well as the animal’s discomfort caused by the heating of the claws during operation of the tool.

Therefore, the issue of trimming or filing dogs’ nails is decided individually.

In addition to specialized scissors and nail clippers, to perform the procedure yourself, you will need to purchase the following tools:

standard dog nail file with hard coating for filing;
cotton pads;
pharmaceutical antiseptic in the form of chlorhexidine or hydrogen peroxide;
any hemostatic agent.

It is advisable to trim the claws, and, if necessary, treat them with hygiene products, over plastic film or rubberized oilcloth.