Dog grooming at home
Thanks to our busy lifestyles, caring for a dog can be a bit of a challenge.
You may want to hire a good groomer to groom your dog at home because you can't afford the time to groom your dog. Choosing a reliable groomer is a responsible matter! We know that your pet is part of your family. Do you want it to always be nice and clean? We pay special attention to his hygiene and know how to show off his beauty. The exceptional talent and professionalism of the team have been appreciated by our clients for many years.
Most pets will not wear down their nails naturally in a home environment, which can lead to problems if they are not trimmed regularly.
Our workshop for grooming dogs at home in Moscow and the Moscow region has long gained respect and popularity, thanks to the experience of the masters and the highest level of service for grooming dogs and cats at home.
If you get your dog a haircut at home that really suits him, do your best to take clear, good photos of the cut so that the next time you groom your pet, you can show the groomer exactly what you like.
Dogs with short nails make less noise when walking on hardwood floors and are less likely to suffer from a broken nail while running. Your pet will never be happy with a regular pedicure, but an experienced groomer can handle the task for you.
Every dog needs a haircut to maintain a healthy coat, which primarily affects the appearance and smell of the pet. Plus, no matter what breed your dog is or what type of coat he has, they all require regular grooming to maintain health and beauty.
Over the past years, we have gained unique experience. Some dogs or cats require more careful care. They are different: active, violent, elderly, have a certain health problem. No matter what they are, we know how to take great care and treat them with love. We help them feel beautiful and healthy. Rest assured!
Bath day for the black terrier
Groomer
There are many misconceptions about dog ownership that people use to justify their laziness. Here are the four most common : 1) you need to wash your dog as little as possible so that the coat does not deteriorate... 2) the blackie’s eyes and ears are weak points, so conjunctivitis and otitis are a given that you have to put up with, 3) only the vet can remove stones from teeth doctor, 4) we love our dog, but she doesn’t like all this hygiene . For each misconception, you can give a lot of refutations: 1. Try not to wash yourself or brush your teeth for three months, won’t people on the street shy away from you? Why is a dog worse? Both she and you (and the same passers-by) are pleased if the dog is clean and well-groomed, not to mention the image of the breed - it’s unlikely that anyone will want to buy a puppy after seeing a shaggy and dirty animal. And modern shampoos and conditioners not only do not spoil the hair and skin, but also nourish and strengthen. 2. If your blackie has problems with the eyes or ears , contact medical specialists (not general practitioners). Moreover, do not self-medicate, which can lead to the disease becoming chronic. 3. Dental hygiene is very important . If you do not monitor their condition, periodontal disease may begin, and the dog will simply lose its teeth. In addition, bacteria that multiply in the mouth (especially in the presence of stones) can cause diseases of the digestive tract. I am not a fan of brushing teeth with toothpaste - it has no effect and is difficult for the dog. It is much easier and more effective to remove stones that are just beginning to form mechanically once a month. This simple procedure is available to any owner. Of course, if you have neglected teeth, old hard stones can only be removed in a clinic and this is not cheap. 4. I understand love as care, not blind love . After all, you force your children to maintain hygiene, brush their teeth and wash their hair - although many of them don’t like it either. Dogs, like children, get used to these procedures over time; perhaps they do not enjoy it, but they know that it is necessary and take it for granted. Your care for your pet will extend the years of his healthy, joyful life and bring pleasure to everyone who knows your four-legged friend!
It is necessary to groom a dog for an exhibition 1-2 days before the start of the exhibition. The closer to the exhibition, the better the dog will look. Before grooming, the black terrier must be thoroughly combed and then washed. It is best to use show dog shampoo, or shampoo with conditioner . Some dog owners believe that before a haircut it is not necessary to thoroughly wash and groom the dog, they say that after the haircut, we will wash it and groom it well for the show. I can disappoint you: the quality of an exhibition haircut directly depends on the quality of the wool prepared for this very haircut. Poorly washed or poorly groomed coat will not hold a haircut and all your and the groomer’s efforts will be in vain, and you will not be able to show your dog at the show in all its glory. Therefore, washing and drying the dog before grooming is the MOST important part of preparation, and this is 50% your dog's success at the show. The shampoo is diluted in water approximately 1 to 10 and whisked until foam forms. The wool is thoroughly soaked in this mixture down to the roots, and then washed off well with a stream of warm water. The ENTIRE dog needs to be washed, paying great attention to the head. All hair on the head should be thoroughly washed. Considering the characteristics of the black fur coat, it takes a sufficient amount of time to wet the entire fur coat. My 2 favorite brands are BIO-GROOM and #1 ALL SYSTEMS. You can read more about the use of a specific product on the manufacturers’ websites. We tried many different shampoos, but perhaps only 2 shampoos give the best effect on my dog’s coat - EXTRA BODY and WIRY COAT from BIO-GROOM and Crisp Coat Shampoo from #1 ALL SYSTEMS. Each of these shampoos has its own unique properties that the other does not have. For example :
EXTRA BODY SHAMPOO (by BIO-GROOM) - this shampoo is popular among owners of long-haired dog breeds. It can also be used on animals with short hair to increase the optical volume of the fur. Also used in cases where you do not have the opportunity to wash the animal on the day of the exhibition. Tear-free shampoo that improves coat quality. Ideal for animals with thick undercoat. Gives volume. This protein-rich shampoo is formulated with pure beauty ingredients. Does not dry out or injure the coat. Has neutral Ph - control. It is washed off easily and without residue, leaving the wool of the desired quality. You can dilute 1 part shampoo to 4-5 parts water.
WIRY COAT SHAMPOO (by BIO-GROOM) - “Tearless” shampoo for wire-haired dog breeds. Concentration 1:4. Suitable for wire-haired breeds of animals. Emphasizes and improves hair structure. But we know of kennel owners who use it for animals with long, excessively soft hair and consider it ideal for some of their pets. Shampoo “no tears” for wire-haired dog breeds. Adds the desired perfection to coarse hair, improves structure, rinses well, deodorizes and adds volume without damaging the hair. Improves the color of any color, making it deeper. Easily washed off. Ph - neutral
CRISP COAT SHAMPOO (from #1 ALL SYSTEMS) - This shampoo is rich in texture-enriching and dirt-removing plant extracts. Helps remove chlorine and harmful contaminants. Purified plant fragrances refresh the coat. The shampoo is made from 100% herbal cleansers. I apply shampoo to the dog's coat 2 times, the first time the main dust is washed off, and the second time the washing itself occurs. After you have washed the blackie with shampoo and rinsed the coat thoroughly, it is advisable to use a conditioner-balm. There are a great variety of them, and you can choose.
In order to make the right choice of conditioner, as well as understand the meaning of care, you need to remember: the coat of a black cat needs volume and no weighting! You need to proceed from this rule when choosing care products, and accordingly, cosmetics containing oils are not suitable. I found a conditioner for myself from #1 ALL SYSTEMS - SUPER RICH PROTEIN LOTION CONDITIONER (from #1 ALL SYSTEMS). This air conditioner is an achievement of the latest developments from #1 All Systems. Carrot and grape seed extracts included in this product allow you to instantly condition the wool, giving it the necessary texture and shine. Cares for the fur very carefully and protects it from the static effect for a long time. Makes it smoother and silkier. Controls most wool problems, significantly reduces tangling, and gives the coat a finished show look. The conditioner is diluted in water 1:10 and rubbed well into the wool. We wait 5-6 minutes. Then we rinse the wool with running water, but not too much; some of the conditioner should remain on the wool. There is no need to rinse off the conditioner completely. I noticed that manufacturing companies have a much larger selection of hair care products, which require oils and weight. There are very few products that add volume, moisturize and are light in texture. We are still looking for the perfect conditioner, and haven't liked any of them 100% yet. The French conditioner from HERY is quite good - it really doesn’t weigh it down and adds volume, as it says on the label, but this product is not concentrated. In order to get the desired effect, you need to apply it in a very thick layer, and as a result, the entire bottle was used on an adult male dog before the show. So, the blackie is washed, wrung out and ready to leave the bathroom. You need to stock up on a large number of towels and a powerful hair dryer (in winter this is simply necessary), because drying the blackie is very difficult, and ideally it is advisable to purchase a professional hair dryer, which, due to the powerful air flow, literally knocks moisture out of the undercoat and greatly reduces the drying time. Such hair dryers are quite expensive in our country. I dry my blackie's coat by constantly brushing him against the grain. It takes about 2-3 hours if you use a regular hair dryer with a power of approximately 1800 watts and 40 minutes if you use a professional hair dryer. By correctly using the air flow, you can achieve a large volume of hair on the entire dog. Blow dry your dog until it is completely dry. You can use an antistatic agent, there are a great many options for using it and you can get different effects each time. The method of its use is individual for each dog. It is very convenient to dry your dog on the grooming table. If the dog does not have enough hair volume (genetically or during the molting period), special foams can be used before the show. #1 ALL SYSTEMS has three types of color balms for different coat colors. I don't use them, but if your dog's fur is faded in the summer, they can be a lifesaver before a show. It is necessary to protect the wool with special products with UV protection. This may not be relevant for domestic dogs, but for kennel dogs or dogs that spend the entire summer outdoors in the countryside, this may be useful. And only when the dog is completely dry can you start cutting.
Trimming the hind legs - Starting from the hock joint, 1-2 cm above it, with an electric clipper (leaving 5-6 mm of hair), clip the back of the thigh to the anus. On the thigh, the fur is left 8-10 cm with a smooth transition from longer (edge of the thigh) to shorter fur. With a properly trimmed thigh, structural defects and weakness of the hind limbs can be hidden to a greater extent. I would like to emphasize once again that after a haircut, a black terrier should have beautiful, natural silhouette lines with smooth transitions from long to shorter hair. His appearance should exude confidence and strength and in no case give the impression of being overly decorative. Figure No. 1 Shown in blue - We cut the back of the thigh with a machine. 2 cm above the hock and up to the anus. The red arrows show that the scissors are parallel to the thigh and we remove all the protruding hairs from the inside of the thigh. The yellow line shows - using scissors from bottom to top, we cut in a straight line the inner side of the thigh (but both legs). From behind, your legs should appear straight.
Figure No. 2 Shown in red - we make a line for the back of the thigh. We compare the long hair on the thigh (8-10cm) with the short shaved electric clipper (blue color in picture No. 1.) We comb the hair as shown by the arrows and then use scissors from the bottom up to make a beautiful curved line of the hind legs. As in the picture. It is shown in blue - we comb the hair back and cut the hind metatarsus at an angle. Yellow shows how to trim the fur on the front of the thigh.
The tail is cut evenly along its entire length. The length of the hair on the tail is 5-6 cm. The tail should be in harmony with the body. The tail should look thick and powerful from all sides. The tail determines the dog's bones. If the tail is thick, then the dog has a strong backbone. Therefore, you should not cut your tail short. If the tail is docked too short at the end, you can leave longer hair, which visually slightly increases the length of the tail.
Back and side haircut . We cut the back with scissors: from the tail towards the withers, we comb the hair up and forward and cut with scissors from the tail to the withers (Figure No. 3, the back line is highlighted with a brown line). On the croup and near the base of the tail, 2-3 cm of hair is left, then gradually towards the withers the length of the hair increases, and 7-10 cm long of hair is left on the withers. This is done in order to emphasize the well-developed withers of the dog. And a pronounced high-forwardness. The croup should flow smoothly into the tail. The tail should not extend above the line of the back or be below the line of the back. Figure No. 3 is shown with arrows, a transition is made and the coat is compared from short hair on the back to longer hair on the sides.
Figure No. 4 The back line is shown in blue. The withers stand out. The dog is made high-fronted. The sides are cut evenly and smoothly. The sides should be rounded (shown by red arrows). The length of the fur on the sides is 8-10 cm. The fur on the sides is combed up and cut from the bottom up. Yellow lines (shading) - here it is necessary to make a smooth transition from shorter hair on the back to longer hair on the sides. The transition should be smooth, and the lines should flow smoothly into one another.
Drawing No. 5 The skirt line is cut in a straight line. (yellow color) Dogs with well-developed chests should not be left with a “skirt” that is too long. The strict line of the chest, which drops slightly below the elbow and turns into a moderately tucked belly, gives a particularly impressive appearance to a well-developed dog. In addition, a long “skirt” left on an already well-developed chest gives the front part of the body excessive heaviness and squatness. Haircut of the neck and chest - from the base of the auricle, draw a line to the junction of the lower jaw and neck, starting from the base of the auricle and down to the sternum (keel) and down 3-4 cm, cut everything short, with an electric clipper or scissors (leaving 5-6 mm of wool) so that you get the so-called “shirt front”.
Figure No. 6 The blue color shows the line along which you need to cut the “shirt front”. The structure of the shoulder (scapula) and sternum (keel) is shown in yellow. Feel for this shoulder structure (bone) in your dog. The shirtfront neck is cut further (more than) these bone protrusions. This will make the dog's neck look longer and more stylish. Then we cut the scruff (upper part of the neck). Carefully combing the hair against the hair growth, cutting off all excess with scissors from top to bottom, form a mane (the length of the hair on the upper part of the neck (5-7 cm). Try to make the transition from the scruff to the withers as smooth as possible, otherwise, you may end up with a short-cropped neck protruding from the body covered with long hair. On the side of the neck, the transition from long hair to very short hair is made smooth. The length of the hair on the mane should correspond to the characteristics of the dog. On a thin and long neck, the hair is left longer, and on a thick one , short - shorter.
Figure No. 8 From the front, the “shirt front” looks like this (shown in blue). The yellow dot is the keel (sternum), the yellow lines are the shoulder bones. The shirt front is cut just below these bones.
Figure No. 7 The arrows show - we comb the wool up and make a smooth transition from the length of the wool on the sides of 8-10 cm to the short one on the “shirtfront”
Trimming the chest (shoulder) Figure No. 9 The breed standard states: “...The front part of the chest of the black terrier protrudes slightly in front of the line of the shoulder joints...”. I think it would be very nice to emphasize this point. It's done like this. The blue lines show the boundary between the short coat on the lower part of the neck and the longer coat on the shoulders. It is not advisable to make this boundary sharp. All lines of the black terrier's haircut smoothly transition from one shape to another. All parts of the body must be proportionate to each other. Starting from the beginning of the long hair down from the chest bone, 4-6 cm long hair is left. The front part of the chest is formed with scissors. A beautifully cut front with an accentuated shoulder line creates the impression of forward movement.
There may be options here: Figure No. 10 The shoulder line should be round. And end approximately at elbow level. The blue dot on the front paw shows where the chest line ends. And the red dot shows where the elbow is.
The second option is possible when the rounded part of the chest (blue dot) ends just below the elbow line (red dot). Figure 10.1. Grooming of the forelimbs - the forelimbs should be carefully combed with a comb against the grain upwards and with scissors, remove all excess, and form “columns”. The tangles are combed out, and the thick tufts of hair between the pads of the toes on the paw are cut off, because They are often the cause of an insufficiently collected paw. Then trim any protruding hair so that the paw appears round. The claws should stick out a little.
Haircut
Figure No. 11 Comb the fur on the dog’s head and face in the direction of hair growth, freeing it from previously uncombed tangles and dead hair. Cut your ears short inside and out. But it is best to trim the ears after the entire haircut is completed, because... prickly small hairs that get into the ear canal cause discomfort in the dog, causing it to constantly shake its ears, which is very tiring for the hairdresser. The easiest way to trim the ears is with an electric or mechanical clipper, but you can also use scissors, from the tip of the ear to its base, but at the base of the ear the hair is left as long as on the head and a smooth transition is made from very short hair on the ear to longer hair at the base of the ear , this is done so that the ears do not appear too tight to the cheekbones. Hair that hangs down at the edges and makes the ears appear larger must be carefully trimmed with scissors, trying not to damage the ear. On the forehead, starting from the brow ridges, using scissors, cut off an area not too short in width equal to the width of the skull, and in length – to the base of the ear. The remaining part of the forehead is cut with scissors so that there is a smooth transition from short cropped hair to longer hair at the end of the skull. This is done in order to be able to form a so-called “cap”, which is cut behind the occipital protuberance and creates the impression of a longer head. The fur on the cheekbones is almost not cut, but only the ends of the fur are trimmed. There should be a lot of hair on the cheekbones so that the head looks very massive and wide. And then the head is given a “brick” shape (when viewed from above), smoothing the transition from short hair to long hair, forming a mustache and beard. When viewed from above, the head should have the shape of a rectangle, and when viewed from the side, a triangle, where the bangs, mustache, and beard form a right angle. The line of the bangs should be a natural continuation of the forehead, emphasizing its straightness and parallelism to the back of the nose. A bang formed too low or too high distorts the parallelism of the forehead line and the back of the nose and changes the proportions. All hair protruding beyond the rectangular outline of the head must be carefully cut off. Then, thoroughly comb your entire head and trim any stray hairs. Now all that remains is to form the beard and mustache, giving them the shape of a triangle when viewed from the side.
11.1. Correct head structure. The hair on the cheekbones is trimmed a little, the head is given a rectangular shape..
11.2. The head is too narrow in the skull. On the cheekbones the fur is left at maximum length.
11.3. The head is too wide in the skull, leaving a minimal amount of hair on the cheekbones.
11.4. Correctly formed bangs. The length of the skull and muzzle is the same.
11.5. The bangs are too high. The length of the skull seems very short and the length of the muzzle is too long.
11.6. The bangs are too low. The length of the muzzle seems too short.
11.7. Use scissors to remove all protruding hairs and form a rectangular head.
11.8. Correctly formed head.
11.9. The head at the transitions is not processed, the mustache is too bushy.
11.10. Lightened head. In the Kerry Blue Terrier type.
KIND OF READY DOG.
KIND OF READY DOG.
Well, the dog is ready and beautiful. And then I want everyone to see her in this perfect form. This is what exhibitions are for!
Photos and article: Natalya Stolbova
Nursery RCT "Deneb-Keitos"
www.d-keitos.ru
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Grooming cats at home
Without regular care, a cat's claws can grow into the pads of their feet, causing pain, infection and lameness, a particular problem for older cats.
Shortened nails are also less likely to damage people, other pets, clothing, and furniture. At home, your cat will feel confident and calm, in a familiar home environment, as opposed to traveling with her to a special salon. Regular grooming of a cat is a mandatory procedure that improves the coat structure of long-haired breeds. Our grooming workshop will select various haircut options specifically for your cat breed.
History of the legendary breed
The Black Russian Terrier was created by dog handlers in the Soviet Union on the orders of Comrade Stalin himself. It was necessary to create a breed that could carry out guard and service work in any climatic conditions.
The government put forward the requirements that the breed had to have:
- Thick and long coat to withstand severe frost.
- Unconditionally follow the owner's orders.
- There should be ferocity in the dog's character.
To fulfill all these requirements, dog experts selected 14 breeds with similar appearance and character. The result is a well-trained, unpretentious, efficient dog with a stable immune system and a cheerful, easy-going character. The blood of the black terrier contains the genes of the Moscow water dog, Newfoundland, Airedale terrier, Rottweiler, and Giant Schnauzer.
Price for puppies in nurseries
Professional kennels in Moscow and other Russian cities offer black terrier puppies for show, sport, and home use. All puppies are vaccinated and free from giardiasis and worms. Dogs bred in kennels have a pedigree and often become holders of various titles and winners at dog shows.
The price of black terrier puppies in Moscow nurseries depends on many factors. A dog can cost 30,000 or more.
Black Terrier
